Luxury Makes a Comeback

Although car companies have taken a beating over the past few years thanks to the weak economic climate, several German car manufacturers surprised the market by turning a profit in Q4 – all based upon their sales of luxury lines.  What does that have to do with Lamborghini, you may ask.  Well, it’s actually a German run company these days, as a subsidiary of Audi, which in turn is a subsidiary of Volkswagon.  Yes the Italian icon, known for sleek designs, speed, and luxury – isn’t all that Italian anymore, and it’s supporting Volkswagon’s recovery as one of the few lines that are profitable.  Likewise, BMW returned to profit, only because of the success of their high end 7 series, while sales of the rest of their product lines remained weak.

Hall of Fame or Hall of Shame

 

At first glance it seems a bit strange.  In one of Munich’s most prominent squares, Odeonsplatz, there are statues of war leaders who oversaw two of the more significant losses in Bavaria’s military history.  Pictured is Karl Philipp von Wrede, who was defeated by Napoleon in 1814, and on the opposite arch is Johann Tserclaes, who was defeated by King Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden.  But upon further review, you find that both were quite decorated, and had successful careers leading the Bavarian army.  Tserclaes, known as the “Monk in Armor,” commanded the Imperial and Holy Roman Empire forces and had a string of victories over the Bohemians, Germans and later the Danish.  Where as Wrede distinguished himself in opposing the Austrian invasions of 1805 and 1809.

The Gravy Train

Munich’s public transport system, MVG, won top honors as the best run and serviced network in Europe by the Automobile Clubs of Europe. Despite my frustrations with the S1 line’s checkered on-time record (and showing up record for that matter), MVG had the best on-time record, functional connections, and multi-language kiosks (introduced in the past 6 months). Other networks that received high ratings were Helsinki and Vienna. The Automobile Club’s only criticism of the network was its price. Along with London, no other city in Europe charges more for a single ride. That hasn't stopped locals from taking the public transit. A seperate study commissioned by the National department of transportaion shows that 50% of locals use public transportation, the highest in Germany. Ironically, the study also shows that Munich locals have more cars per capita (every other person owns a car) than any other city in Germany. So what can you make of this? People in Munich are well paid (enough to buy cars), environmentally consious, and certainly leverage the heck out of their transportation system.

Beer for Strong Men (and women too)

Welcome to a special time of year in Munich, a period called the Strong Beer Season – where all the local breweries make a unique brew that is higher in alcohol content, stronger in taste, and often darker in color to get locals through the Lent season. The original Strong Beer, called “Salvator” was actually made by monks as a way to provide more dissolved solids to ease fasting during the season of Lent. Well the Season lasts through March 27th, and you can find Strong Beers from each of the big 6 breweries in Munich at each of their signature beer halls.

Open Air Jam Session

There’s nothing like rolling up a Grand Piano and supporting band out into the center of Marienplatz.  I was once told that Munich was a city of real sophistication, primarily because it has several classical music companies.  Well anytime we can move from “Chrome Man” (those irritating people who spray paint themselves and stand like a statue) to a classical concert in the middle of the city’s busiest square – they have my vote.  It was great to see the reactions to those passing by, who knew they were seeing something quite unique, and were able to appreciate the spectacular setting for the free concert.

The Lake House

One more image from the icy English Garden, this time of the famous Seehaus located about 1 KM from the famous Chinese Tower.  If memory serves, the Chinese Tower seats about 6500 people, the Seehaus can seat 2500, and if you continue just a bit further North to Hirschau, you get about 1000 seats.  Each site along this progression becomes less touristy and more intimate.  The Seehaus, pictured here was actually built in 1789, and it was encapsulated in the plan of the American, Benjamin Thompson, who was the Bavarian Minister of war and social reformer, and promoted the idea of a National park.  There are few other places like it in Munich.  Even from across the half-frozen lake, you can see people sitting at the lake side to enjoy the view, the swans, and the local brew.

Do the Walk of Life

A long trail of locals map out across the frozen plain of the English Garden.  With the sun shining bright, locals took to the parks on Sunday, and with good reason.  The Beer gardens were all open and ready for business.  Even the outdoor beer gardens did a steady business.  The other good news is you are much less likely to see naked men in the park these days.  Something to be thankful for.  The English Garden is one of the places in Munich that successfully blends urban and rural living, with nearly 4 square KM of parkland leading from concrete forest to real forest.

Snow, Snow, and More Snow

I apologize for the lack of regularity in the posts, but in all honesty we just returned to Munich, only to be bombarded with another snow flurry. We had hoped that after 3 weeks, Spring would show up – like where we travelled. But no such luck. More below freezing temperatures, and more snow, much like the East Coast of the US. At least the sun came out later in the day, and it cleared off. Good news is that the temperatures are supposed to inch higher each day for the next 10 days. Fingers crossed, as Spring in Munich is FANTASTIC!

Going Underground

And now for another “man about town” as I showed yesterday. This popular image you will find at nearly all U-bahn stations and underpasses around town.  I took the photo because I was sure there was a good story behind this retro-looking symbol – complete with the hat, suit and complimentary swagger.  Yet I’ve looked and looked and can’t find any details about who designed it, how it was adopted as standard signage, what timeframe it’s from (my bet would be 40s to 50s, but that’s based upon an American’s perspective, not German), and possibly most important of all – does he have a great German name.  If you know of any details, please fill me in.

Man About Town

It’s a bit ironic, in fact, that the man labeled “Walking Man” has spent his entire Munich Existence in one place – at the entrance to the Munich RE company, which commissioned the project. He did, however do some travel from his California birthplace, where he was made in sections at the La Paloma factory in Sun Valley, and then assembled (great photos here) in Munich. Made of a steel interior, and a fiberglass skin, the statue even includes a staircase inside which enabled the builders to assemble it piece by piece. Today, and for the past 12 years, it is a Munich Landmark on Leopoldstrasse.

I Speak English, Wall Street English

Home of irritating advertisements all over Europe, it’s the Wall Street Institute.  It’s slogan is, “I speak English, Wall Street English!” as a focus to help in your career.  The fact is that most people in Munich already speak English very well – whether it’s Wall Street or not.  Further, most locals don’t at all mind speaking English.  In many cases, they want the opportunity to practice the language, so unlike in many countries around Europe – most Munich locals are not offended if you even open the conversation with English.  For me, I think the best is always to ask if people speak English first.  It shows a bit more respect before diving in.

Your Place, or Mine?

One of the mosaics at the base of the Peace arch in the Bogenhausen neighborhood of Munich.  The Mosaics are an allegorical representation of peace and war, and the victory and blessings of civilization.  Carl von Effner, forever changed the face of this part of Munich, when in 1857 he constructed the footbath and green area on the right hand side of the Isar.  The result is a 30-hectare Maximilian Park, and the 23 meter column that supports the peace arch.

Whimsical Villa Stuck

No place in Munich do you experience a sense of fantasy like you do in Villa Stuck.  Walking from room to room is like walking through a fairy tale story, where the whimsical comes to life.  Here you see one of its famous rooms, the music chamber where the ceiling is covered with astrological symbols.  You will also find Orpheus with his lyre, as well as the Dionysian sphere and dance.  The magical lighting effects bring the room, and the building, to life.  The house it worth the visit alone, but the museum hosts a great selection of special exhibits that make a visit even better.

Matchbox Mania

As you know, the Bavarians take their cars very seriously.  But not so seriously that you don’t see some innovative packaging around one of the latest BMWs.  I came across this scene at the airport, with some sort of promotion from Sixt, which is one of the most well known car leasing/renting companies in Munich.  Wrapped up like a Matchbox (which received its name from the boxes in the shape of a matchbox) car, this is one toy I’d love to take home with me.

Freeze Frame

A group of dare-devil boys race across the frozen lake below the Olympic Swimming pool – in nothing but their swimming gear.  I wouldn’t have noticed them if it wasn’t for the high pitched screams rolling across the field once their bare feet hit the snow.  I think it’s at this point I’m supposed to tell you that no actual children were injured during the course of this stunt, as all of them were back in the pool in 10 seconds flat.  Although this was certainly an exception, Munich has done an amazing job of integrating most of their pools with the outdoors.  Many of the pools – the Westbad, Nordbad, etc – all have one of their pools outside and open in any kind of weather.

The Literary Heart of Munich

In the largest publishing center in Germany and Europe (that’s Munich, by the way), they take their literature quite seriously. But it wasn’t until 1997 that Munich had a center to celebrate this great publishing history, and its innate love for the written word. Just off the pedestrian streets in the Altstadt is the Munich Literary House located at Salvadorplatz. It is described as a place for book sippers and page nibblers, movie talkers, penny-a-liners, starving artists, thinkers, and day-dreamers. Appropriately, the house was built in a former school, where they use the former girls gymnasium as the German Book Archive and Foundation for Literature. Despite a full program of public readings with famous authors, most people know the house for the great atmosphere in the cafe and coffeehouse.

Enough is Enough

With now more than a month of sub-freezing weather in Munich, some of the locals have said “Enough is Enough.” They found their way to the Munich Airport to get out of town – most likely to some place a bit warmer. My favorite departures today – Boa Vista (good view) Portugal – 455 KM West of the coast of Africa; Mallorca; Antalya, Turkey; Cairo; Doha, Qatar; and Tenerife. If you think you know your geography, a good test is to look at departures from an International Airport. Here were some direct flights to cities I was not familiar with: Donetsk, Timisoara, Poznan, Gdansk, Tirana, Catania, and many more.

Walking Through a Dream

You ever get the sense that you’re walking through a day dream, with other worlds swirling around you? Mythical creatures around you, historical battles playing out upon your side, and the gods looking down from up above. That’s the way it feels walking through the arcade at the Hofgarten, with it’s arched walkways and interior paintings practically reaching out to you. I end up showing the Hofgarten a lot on this blog, primarily because it’s one of the most beautiful parts of Munich. Between the Boccia Ball and great beer garden in the Summer, the street performers in the atrium, and the entry into the Altstadt or English Garden – there’s always something happening here...from this world or another.

Morning Commute

Why let the snowy weather get you down. For many people around Munich, they just change their mode of transportation. It is amazing how many people you see around town pulling out their cross country skis to get around town - especially in the parks. This particular photo was taken in the East Park, and he was one of about 20 skiers swishing by. So many people seem to have all the Winter gear - even if they only use it 2-3 times per year. I suppose that comes with the territory of living in a cold climate.

Modern NY Living – but at a Price

One of the many modern building developments in Munich now.  Previously I talked about the 1600 units being built lining the train tracks of central Munich.  This development, which I affectionately call the “Big Dig” was kicked off several years ago and the first phase is done, and the second is just a huge hole in the ground.  It sits between the famous Lowenbrau Keller, and the neighborhood of Nymphenburg.  The views of the apartments and sky terraces are incredible, but so are the prices.  Most of these developments were created prior to the global financial crisis, and there’s no telling how many of these units will remain vacant in the short term.

Slogging Down Nymphenburg Strasse

Once the principal road connecting the old town Munich to the summer residence of rulers of Bavaria - it's Nymphenburg strasse. Today, it represents one of the main thoroughfares leading through neighborhoods Maxvorstadt, Neuhausen, and Nympenburg. Like many other streets in Munich, it continued to be covered with snow. It's quit interesting, in fact, which streets they choose to completely plow, and which they don't. At any rate, amongst the old early 1900 villas, as well as the post war box buildings, Nymphenburg provides a bit of charm because of its tree-lined boulevard.

Dreaming of a Warmer Place

For the second day in a row, Munich was pounded with snow and temperatures ranging from a high of -4 and a low of -8. Local papers report that a record 19 inches of snow fell yesterday. Reportedly, 600 passengers spent the night in the airport last night after flights were cancelled. The Munich airport seemed to catch up today, and most flights took off - albeit a bit delayed. I witnessed a few faux avalanches today as huge puffs of snow fell from rooftops. Well for those sticking around, they are sure to see the heat go up at the Bayershererhof Hotel Fasching show (pictured here), but that may be the only heat around town - as temperatures are supposed to drop to -16 in the coming days, and the low doesn't get above freezing any time in the next 10 days.

Snug Like a Bug in a Rug

That is a bug, but not so snug under a good 6 inches of snow that absolutely pummeled Munich...scratch that, pummeled Europe today. All over Europe, we heard stories of of traffic coming to a grinding halt. More than 100 flights were cancelled today at Munich Airport, and many, many more were delayed - or simply still sitting on the runway. Most of the inner city still works, but there have been reports of delays on train lines, and certainly the bus and tram lines were impacted. The really disturbing news is that the same weather is expected for the next four days, so this could be just the beginning. Grab your boots and your ski-wear, and get ready for the snow that just keeps on coming.

Brief Encounters

Where do you find the best shopping in Munich?  Dare I say it…the airport.  Yes.  It is likely true.  In Munich, they’ve created a marvel of an airport – experience.  After 3 years of flying in/out of Charles De Gaulle Airport in France, I can tell you they have built something special on the border of Freising.  If you like the styles from Hermes, Polo/Ralph Lauren, Bvlgari, Esprit, and Burberry; you can find them all at the airport.  Not only that, Terminal 1 feels like you are using a small local airport where each section only has 15 gates.  Terminal 2 is the Lufthansa Hub, and it provides all sorts of extra services like free coffee and newspapers. Add to that the cinemas, the historic aircraft visitor center, and the visitor viewing terrace– and you have an airport worth visiting if you are travelling or not.  This is one of the scenes from the open area between terminal 1 & 2.  The airport is constantly voted one of the best in Europe.  And one visit, and you will see why.  Amazingly clean, efficient, and reliable – with a whole lot of extras thrown in.

Flower POWER!

Here's another scene from the kick off of the Carnival season. I'm not quite sure exactly how this crew of "Bloom Where you are Planted" revelers put these outfits together, but they were quite the hit - especailly next to the scary witches, afro maniacs, or the Viking Warriors (when was the last time you saw Vikings in Bavaria - anyway). Most of the festivities will happen on Feb 14-16 leading up to Fat Tuesday. If you prefer to move away from the funny masks, flower women, and crazy beer drinking, you could try a taste of the real thing - the Brazilian Carnival show at the Gasteig where they will highlight the rich musical tradition, as well as new choreographies of Samba and Bossa Nova.

Fasching is Back

Today officially opens the Fasching celebration in Munich. You may not think of Munich as a place for Carnival, but the festivites actually take over the city. For the next few weeks, you will see amazing costumes, great private parties, and the locals going out of their way to show off the spirit of Carnival. We spent the day at the Crazy Knight Parade, which was a strange mix of tractor and farmers, an odd collection of witches, and of course the standard partying band. Here's one of the crazy costumes. Again, not what you would expect in Munich - but everthing ramps up to the big celebration at the Viktualienmarkt on Fat Tuesday.

Minute Munich Details

One of the great things about Munich is finding some of the endless little details that make up much of its character. I have come across these shutter locks in several places around Munich. This one was in one of the outer burroughs of Munich (un-officially known as the subburbs) called Ramersdorf-Perlach, on an inn called the Wagnerhof, built in 1826. I looked the building up, and it seems it's just like 10 others historical buildings in the little village; and the village is just like 100 more in the surrounding area. What happens when incredible historical buildings are just the norm - the center of every community, the setting for every village? Coming from the West Coast of the US, where nothing is more than 100 years old, I think all the small details are amazing and provide a lot of context for what Munich is all about.

Walking on the Wild Side

I mentioned the other day how street performers seem to have taken over downtown Munich. Well, it's the same with artists. This scene was on Theatinerstrasse, next to the park on the backside of the Rathaus. I have also seen similar artist lining Leopoldstrasse. Not sure exactly how much of this art they sell, as it certainly is not my thing. But somehow, they seem to make ends meet, and their art reaches a tremendous audience walking by on the central streets of Munich.

A Place for those "No Moped" Types

Over in the Southeast part of Munich is a dealer and service center for that Italian cultural icon, the Vespa. It even states on the Vesbar website, not to even think about bringing in some moped. They don't do that sort of thing around there. Vespas are all over Munich, with the proximity to Italy. They are built primarily just over the border, outside Pisa, and were created as a result of a severely restricted airline industry after WWII. For decades they have been the ultimate in Italian design, selling millions of units - driven in large part by Hollywood glamorizing in movies like Roman Holiday. That success lasted largely into the 90s when the Vespa was undersold by cheap scooters from Asia. Now bouncing back from the edge of bankruptcy, the company seems to be on track again. Either way, no one can take away what the Vespa has done for pop culture.

A Bit of Istanbul in Munich

Just blocks South from the Central Train Station is the neighborhood of Ludwigsvorstadt, one known as the international section of the city. And when I say International in Munich, it generally means the Arabic part of town. It is estimated that Munich has a Muslim population of approx. 100,000, representing about 7.5% of the total Munich population of 1.34M (and well above the 5% German average - which is second highest in Western Europe behind France & the Netherlands). Munich's largest ethnic group is Turkish with 43,000 residents, and Albanian with 30,000 residents. I find this neighborhood (pictured here with St. Paul's Church in the background) fascinating because it is something you will not find in most US cities. To contrast this with the US, Muslims represent less than 1% of the total population. While there, you can find all the Middle Eastern foods and craft products, as well as hundreds of other businesses that cater primarily to the Muslim world of Munich.

Falling February

Caution! Caution! All over Munich you will find boards leaning against buildings at a 45 degree angle urging people not to walk too close to the side of the buildings. As the sun has been shining at mid-day, much of the snow (and more likely ice) on rooftops are beginning to slide off into the streets - much to the surprise of those passing by. You can see many rooftops have a grate to catch this fleeting snow, but it can only do so much as three weeks of snow has been building up. So watch yourself out there. Sometimes it's not always the snow beneath your feet that slips you up.

From Munich to Mongolia

Two musicians gathered a crowd as they performed a wide variety of Mongolian Chants in downtown Munich yesterday. The throaty chants fascinated the passers by, despite non-stop competiton from other street performers. It seems more and more performers show up every weekend, to the point that there is one nearly every 50 meters around Marienplatz. Although I don't find many connections between the two M-locations, one that surprises me is the prevelance of the swastika in Mongolain culture. You often see it at churches and temples. I loved the colors and the music, and it sure beat the usual silver man - who just stands as a statue for hours at a time.

Cohesion Makes us Strong

That's the theme of a anti-violence campaign backed by players of the FC Bayern Football Club (pictured here), as well as the Archidiocese of Munich, Bavarian State Ministry of Interior and the Munich Police. The initiative was created in response to recent violent attacks on local U and S-bahn trains, encouraging the citizens of Munich to stand in solidarity against an increasing trend of crime. The movement was inspired by Dominik Brunner, who was killed while trying to protect a victim of an attack on the S-Bahn.

And then the Scrooge

Not even 50 meters from the cool kids snowboarding (from yesterday) was the person I affectionately call the scrooge. I was walking around taking photos of everyone on the frozen pond. Coming from a place where lakes never freeze, it's quite a novelty to see so many people celebrating the Winter time on the ice. I approached for about 10 seconds, and he stopped the whole hockey game to tell me I was doing something wrong - a common German trait. His exact words were, "You are taking photos, but you don't know us. You are not allowed to take photos." What is it about the Germans who are so eager to tell you when you do something "wrong?"

High Flying

You don't need to go up to the Alps to find high flying snowboarding, this scene came from Munich's East park. Tracking down about 30 feet of snow bank, and getting lift off a beer garden bench (half elevated). These cool kids, as soon as they heard I was doing something online, wanted to get into a photo. What is it about the young kids in Germany, that seem to break down barriers? After two weeks of dumping snow in Munich, you can find snow everywhere.

German Heli-Skiing

In actuality, this helicopter is more about safety than adventure. The ski patrol shut down the runs to do a practice rescue mission in Tirol. Many European countries don't allow heli-skiing, and I've been unable to find any regulations for Germany or Austria for that matter. In fact, many Europeans travel to Canada - for the ultimate skiing adventure. Heli or not - the afternoon makes for an amazing color on a clear day in the alps.

Shopping in the Hood

One of my favorite neighborhood markets is the Elisabethmarkt, located in Schwabing. It's a mix of permanent and make shift stalls where you can get your daily dose of fruit, vegatibles, and breads. The market was created in 1931 at Elisabethplatz, which was named after the Empress Elisabeth of Bavaria. At the Northeast corner of the market is a pavilion called the Milk Hut, which was built by the physician and teetotaller (someone who practices abstinence from alcohol) Carl Brendel, who supervised the distribution of milk every morning. His priority was "keeping the poison of alcohol from the people" Yet in the end, he wasn't so successful as it's now repurposed as a beer garden restaurant known as the Wintergarden.

A Night at the Circus

It's the topsy-turvy world of Circus Krone, said to be the largest circus in Europe. Founded in 1905, and run by at least 3 generations of the Krone family, this is really a Munich establishment - located just west of the Central Train Station. The permanent arenea was destroyed in the allied bombing after WWII, but then rebuilt and now seats 3000 spectators. We went to the Winter circus, which was much more about acrobatics than animals. It was fun for the kids, but perhaps I miss the good old Tigers and Trapese.

From the Fuhrer's HQ to a Forgotten Era

I came across this amazing museum the other day - the Museum of Castings of classical Images. I walked in and reconginzed it immediately as the place that Adolf Hitler stood with all of his top aids, and in fact it is the former SS offices, headquarters to the Nazi party in the middle of the Mazvorstadt neighborhood. Used today as a mix of the Musical College, several art galleries, and home to a variety of classes - the building is a clear connection to the past in Munich. We got to this point and were buzzed in, but somehow missed our opening. So in true German fashion they declined our entry. It's as if we didn't know the secret handshake and didn't enter with extreme efficiency - so they decided no! Perhaps another time. On a side note, sorry for the delay in posting. All I can say is that work has been busy like never seen before.

Along for the Ride

We were back on the canals after more than two weeks of sub-freezing temperatures. This little guy, a.k.a. Spider Boy was off for a ride on one of the traditional Bavarian sleds, which sell for about 250 euros by the way. It's great to see entire families out skating, some even out with baby strollers. You can rent skates, and I understand you can even skate at night as they pull out the flood lights.

An Intimate Dinner for (Thirty) Two

In the heart of the Bavarian National Museum you can find one of the most important and impressively preserved silver settings of the 18th century. The dinner service of Hildesheim's Prince Bishop, Freidrich Wilhelm of Westphalia is beutifully preserved, and gives insight into the life of royalty at the time. The Bavarian museum is an amazing hodge podge of Bavaria - from 17th and 18th century musical instruments, to impressive models of entire cities, from fine porcelain to Baroque paintings, from armor knights of the middle ages to Renaissance statues.

Overall, the museum collection seemed a bit random, as you couldn't tell how one room connected with the next. With that said, it was the building that was one of the most impressive parts of the museum.

Overlooking the Prince's Street

A couple looks over Europaplatz and Princeregentenstrasse and the city of Munich. This spot, at the foot of the Angel of Peace statue in Northeast Munich, is one of the many viewpoints along the Isar River. The street is one of the major thoroughfares through Munich, and one of the four original city royal roads. It was built in 1891 and named after Luitpold, the Prince Regent of Bavaria. At the time, it was a prime address for the middle class. Today it is filled with many museums, and is the location of Adolf Hitler's former appartment at number 16.

To Drink, or Not to Drink. Most Say Ya!

There are no shortage of beer steins around Munich. It's safe to say that Munich is certainly one of the hubs of beer stein production, and all for a very good cause. Almost since they started brewing beer in the middle ages, they were making interesting "vessels" to consume it in. Throughout the 17th, 18th, and 19th century, artists made these steins exclusively with the brewers' guilds. But around the turn of the century more than 28 breweries and approx. 1900 pubs realized they had to differentiate themselves, and started making glassware with the Brewery logo. The result is that today there are only 6 major breweries (now all owned by the conglomerates - except for Augustiner), and a scattering of small outfits that arguably make much better and much more authentic beer. This picture, of course, shows more touristy steins than anything else, but I love them because I think they are so much a part of the Bavarian personality. Prost!

Skating in a Winter Wonderland

With more than a week of sub-zero temperatures, it seemed most of Munich flocked to the frozen lakes around the city. Here you can see the canal leading up to Nympenburg Palace, and the thousands of people playing games of Eisstockschiessen (or Ice Stock Sport - a sort of curling mixed with shuffleboard). We skated at the end of the canal today, and it was really fun, but at the same time crazy. I'm always so surprised when there is no order in Munich, but this was a good example - with really, really bad skaters playing hockey in the middle of the open skating surface and pucks whizzing by passing skaters. At any rate, I love this time of year in Munich, when you can skate on the frozen ponds with the palaces as your backdrop. Truly a unique Munich experience.

The Tiffany Girls

An innovative exhibit at the Villa Stuck tries to cast "A New Light" on the inter-workings of the New York Tiffany workshops. For more than a century, it was believed that all Tiffany glass was designed by one person - the company's founder, Louis Comfort Tiffany, and produced nearly exclusively by men. But this first major exhibit of Tiffany glass in Munich focuses on the work of Clara Driscoll, who led a team of glass cutters who became known as "the Tiffany Girls." The exhibit, which has more than 60 examples on display, shows that many of the popular designs were actually developed by Driscoll and her team of glass cutters. I loved the exhibit and the museum, and the only downside is that the curators base the entire premise on personal letters from Driscoll to her family. Either way, the exhibit casts an even brighter light on the life of single women working in New York City in the late 1800s. Check it out for yourself, but it only shows until Jan. 17th.

(Bus)ting Out!

In the spirit of the MVV motto "1 network, 1 timetable, 1 ticket," (that really is their motto - I'm not making that up) I thought it was time to share a ride on the local bus. I've shown the U & S-bahn trains and stations many times, and the bus system is just as impressive. In most cases, the busses run every 5-10 minutes during the day, and they make travel quite easy, as they show a video screen of the next several stops and generally annouce the street name on approach. And as all things German, clean, efficient, and generally on time. The only disadvantage over the trains this time of year is waiting out in the cold. Ohter than that, sit back and enjoy the ride.

Kitzbühel Calling

Perhaps there is no better place to be stranded in the mountains than the lavish Ski resort of Kitzbuhel. At only a 1.5 hour drive from Munich, the Tirol region of Austria is one of the area's finest. Kitzbuhel is considered the regions crown, with its midieval village, and home to the annual World Cup downhill skiing competition - whose highlight is the downhill with its famous Streif slope. I had never seen anything like it, with what seemed to be an endless range of slopes. We spent all day there, and only covered about 1/3 of the mountain. Happy Exploring. The ski season is just starting.

A Little Retreat House

South of Munich is the old Schloss Fürstenried, which although was built in the 1700s, is used on a daily basis today. The beautiful symetric castle is used as a retreat house for the Archdiocese of the city of Munich and Freising. We tried to get a closer look, but unlike many other castles around Munich - this was as close as you could get. When it was originally constructed by Elector Max Emanuel, it was desgned as a hunting lodge, as the Fürstenried forrest surrounded on all sides. At various times, the facility has been used as Kloister, a hospital, and a school - in one case where Pope Benedict studied. Today, you may speed past the Schloss on your way to Garmish, if it wasn't for the stunning roofs stretching over the fences to garther the attention of those cars going by. But unless you are part of the archdiocese, it may be one Schloss that's left unexplored around Munich.

Celebrating 2010!

Here's one final scene of the party on New Year's eve, also known as Silvester in Germany - after St. Silvester, whose feast day falls on Dec. 31. . I drove by Konigsplatz (shown here) on the morning of Jan 1, and all you could see was devestation. There was debris on every spot of land, bottles for launching rockets lining all the roads, and piles of old firework shells. I was even concerned about driving down Brienner strasse, for all the broken bottles that lined the streets. However, within hours the cleaning crews had much cleared already. 2009 was a year more difficult that any of us could have imagined, but the feelings in Munich - as much of the world - are much more opptimistic for 2010.

Ring of Fire

More pics from the mayhem that is New Year's Eve celebration. I'm still trying to come to terms with just how crazy it was. I left when groups of teenagers started shooting rockets randomly into the crowd. There was no attempt to avoid people, and there was no one there telling them not to do it. Not very German at all. The only thing I can make of it is that locals live each day with so many restrictions that they simply need these outlets where anything goes - look at the Fasching celebration, look at New Years, look at Oktoberfest. At any rate, it was a celebration like no other, and one that went across the city.