Color Coding

Not all of Munich's students were out protesting and taking over campus facilities (see posts over the past several weeks.) It's great to see some students just flat out studying together, albeit in Munich style with a beer in hand. These students gathered next to the Museum Bandhorst, which opened earlier this year. If you haven't had the opportunity to see the museum, now is a good time as the initial crowds have begun to die down - especially during the week. The musuem, which was nearly all comprised by a gift from the Brandhorst family, includes nearly the entire work (112 original editions) of illustrated books that Picasso completed; 60 works by Cy Twombly, encompasing paintings, sculptures, and drawings; as well as paintings by the American pop art icon, Andy Warhol. The Brandhorst collection comprises more than 700 different works, and it's the breadth and variety of art that will strike you at this museum. That is, if you are not already blown away by the building's colorful exterior.

Lady in Waiting

I caught this beautiful image of a woman awaiting the arrival of a friend in the midst of the chaos of the Hauptbahnhof. I love this area because there is so much going on, and it's wonderful to see people in the midst of their journey. In some ways, it reminds me of the loneliness that one can feel in a big city, even when surrounded by others. When we lived in Paris, we were constantly reminded of how anonymous the city could feel, despite being surrounded by 12 million people every day. I think this is true of any city, and it certainly comes across in this photo.

Sh*# Bahn!

A line streams around the corner at a DB service point, as they try to field questions during a recent outage. As you likely know, the "S" in S-bahn stands for Schnelle or fast, but I've coined my own phrase for the S-bahn after being personally left stranded 5 times in the last 5 weeks. I've now paid more in taxi fares than I have for my entire monthly pass, thanks to the complete breakdown of the S1 line and sometimes the entire network. Sometimes there are emergency busses put in place, other times absolutely nothing - just a lot of chaos. In all, thousands of travellers were stranded, at least once because of an electrical outage to the central system, and several times because of a train breaking down and clogging the rest of the system. I read in the news that they believe the problems are fixed, but I won't be holding my breath anytime soon.

Inside the New Rathaus

With the millions of photos taken of the New Rathaus in Munich, it's seldom you see views from the inside. The building, as the town City Hall, is actually quite open and accessible, and parts of its interior are as exquisite as its intricate facade. Tourists flock here to see the Glockenspiel every day, but few ever see the endless caverns inside. Actually, given the massive layout of the building, many of the corridors seem deserted. But don't let that stop you from seeing the amazing stained glass history of Bavaria that lines the walls, and the stunning views of the inner courtyard.

Reflections on the Residenz

To move you away from yesterday's hard rock/pop theatre post, I thought I would bring you something more in Munich's sweet spot - the classical concerts at the Munich Residenz. Between the Gastieg and the Residenz, you could easily have 5-10 performances per night to choose from. The Residenz has 12 different performance venues, and judging by the lines they had at least 3-4 in action last night. I've looked all over, and it's nearly impossible to find a single site that shows all the listings, but here are just a few coming up in the ramp up for Christmas. Master pianist Piotr Anderszewski will perform works by Bach, Schumann, and Beethoven, and Stefan Moser, the cembalo organist, will play a series of concerts with the ensemble Serenata Concertante. Or the one that sounds the most interesting to me, is the Schubecks Vino Klassic, that incorporates music, wine tasting, and a gourmet meal. After the one-hour concert, there will be a romantic promenade through the old city to the mansion of the famous Munich composer Orlando di Lasso, where you will enjoy wine with connoisseur Thomas Riedel, and be served a gourmet dinner by chef Alfons Schubeck.

What Were They Thinking?

I mentioned last week that Munich has some of the worst signage of any city I've ever been to, and this example just solidifies it. I'm not sure who the heck put these two acts together, but they couldn't be targeted to any more divergent audience. Slayer, the California based hard rock band, with CD covers including topics of serial killer, satanism, and warfare. Then you have Abba, The Show - the clean cut theatre musical, which reached 100,000 viewers during their last tour. And despite playing in very different arenas in town, some how the two are plastered together all over town.

Big Man On Campus

With 80,000 University students in Munich, Monday means it's back to school for a large percent of the population. There are two major universities in Munich - LMU, founded in 1472 in Ingolstadt and is now a leading research center in Germany; and the Technical University of Munich, specializing in architecture, engineering, economics and medicine. Then you have the University of Applied Sciences, voted the best practical university by the German Centre of University development, which focuses on applying sciences to practice. Or you will also find the Royal Academy of Arts, which was founded in 1770, focusing on painting, graphics, sculpture, and architecture. But then there are hundreds of smaller shcools around town - everything from film, to art, to theatre. Thanks to Luca for pointing out that the protests around Universties in Munich and Germany continue to intensify, with the students demanding "Education for All," asking for better conditions in classrooms. 5000-7000 students marched around the city and continue to ocuppy several campus buildings around Munich, and at schools around Germany and Austria.

Geeky Chicy at the Muffatwerk

We caught the opening night of Ingrid Michaelson's European tour in Munich last night. The American singer will hit four German cities in four nights with her mix of music and comedy during her acoustic tour for Everybody, her latest CD release. The show was at the Muffatwerk Ampere, a club on the backside of the Volksbad, and just across from the Gasteig and Deutsches Museum. It was an interesting club, and great for an intimate show, with no more than 500 people attending. And the wide format of the hall, meant you were never more than 30 feet from the stage. Apparently when they are not running concerts there, it's quite the place for disco lovers. When the weather is nice, there is an exceptional beer garden outside, surrounded by parkland at the base of the Isar.

Olympic Deja Vu

This past month Munich took its first major step to hosting the 2018 Winter Olympics. Partnered with Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Berchtesgaden, Munich submitted their bid and launched the process for becoming the first city to ever host both the Summer & Winter Olympic games. The bid includes a two-cluster approach, with a set of ice sports in Munich, snow sports in Garmisch, and bobsled sports near Berchtesgaden. Some of the facilities already exist for these events, including the track at Schonau am Konigssee for bobsledding, luge and skeleton - where the 2011 championships will be hosted. Likewise, Garmisch will be hosting the World Alpine Championship in 2011. Munich facilities like the Aliance Arena can also be used possibly for opening/closing ceremonies. Either way, the road to the Olympics is a long one - with the deadline for the mini bid book submission in March 2010, and the final round of candidates selected in July, 2010. The final decision will be made in July of 2011. But with strong backing from BMW and Finanzgroup, we're sure to see a good bid.

Sign Language

I have to say that Munich has some of the worst signage I've seen in any city. Even for the biggest shows that come to town, you see these little florescent signs, which look more like something on a college campus that an ad for U2, Coldplay, or the Rolling Stones. Seriously, every European city from Belgrade to Brussels to Budapest - all have great billboards and postings for upcoming bands. So why not in Munich? It must have something to do with its desire for order - there are places for posting billboards and there are places for not posting billboards.

Turning Over a New Leaf

And a new season in Munich. This is a great time in Bavaria. The days are cold and crisp with the sun low in the sky casting long shadows over the tree-lined streets. The is the scene on a quiet street in Neuhausen. This part of town is a little off the beaten path for many who get caught up in the Schloss of the Nymphenburg neighborhood. However, Neuhausen has Munich's largest beer garden, the Hirsch Garden with a capacity of 7000 seats. At the center of Neuhausen is Rotkreuzplatz or Red Cross Place, an interesting mix between open market, 70s block city, and chic boutiques. It embodies much of the contrast of Munich - old yet modern, traditional yet innovative, reserved yet friendly.

Winter Wear

As Winter approaches in Munich, every year they do an amazing thing. They cover up all of the statues around town with custom-made boxes to prevent freezing and cracking of the marble or stone. It's amazing because all of the box cases are custom made for each statue. Even on some of the largest fountains in the city, you will find custom-made boxing to protect it throught he harsh Bavarian Winter. I thought an interesting way to tell about that, is to show this cute little Box Top climbing above one of the casings on the grounds of the Nymphenburg palace.

Munich's Mystic Side

So what do you suppose happens at an Esoteric tradeshow? I came across this billboard in the Schwabing neighborhood, and I'm not sure I get it. Which I guess is no surprise when you look at the definition, and it says "that which is available only to a narrow circle of enlightened, initiated, or specially educated people." I guess I'm not that person, but with over 150 vendors coming to Munich, it's quite clear that many of the Munich locals do in deed get it. In fact, I've seen quite a few organization focused on the esoteric around Munich. Apparently there is no shortage of Munich locals who slant to the slightly mystical.

Higher Learning

So this is one of those situations where the translation of German news doesn't quite give the entire story, but as far as I can tell students have taken over the Academy of Arts in Munich. I don't think it was a hostile takeover in the form of the riots that took place in Paris several years ago (that's just not Munich style), but here's what I can put together from the news. It was a movement that came out of Vienna, Austria, focused on cheap or free education for all students as a God-given right. Whenever students start talking about God-given rights or having the same protection as their parents, I know we are in Europe. There have been banners of "Burn the University" outside (see additional items in the photo), which would be a real shame as the building and the school was founded in 1808 by Maximilian I of Bavaria, and is one of the oldest and most signifincant art academies in Germany and certainly at the heart of the Art Nouveu movement that was so influential in Munich. If you know more details, please share.

An Apollo’s auf Wiedersehen

One of the most popular spots in the English Garden is Apollo's Temple or Monopteros, the iconic temple atop a hill overlooking downtown. Last night at sunset, it was crowded as nice weather brought people out from around Munich. Despite the crowds, this couple was able to capture a moment of solace to watch the sunset (I mean aside from me taking the photo). The Greek style temple was designed by Leo Von Klenze, the court architect to Bavarian King Ludwig I, responsible for most of the Greek rivival buildings around Munich - the Ruhmeshalle overlooking the Octoberfest grounds, the Glyptothek and Alte Pinakotethek museums, Ludwigstrasse, and the Residenz. The 15m hill that the temple is built upon was actually man-made in 1832, using leftover building materials from the recent work on the Residenz.

An American in Munich

This weekend, Munich is hosting the four nations hockey championships, including Germany, Switzerland, Slovakia, and the US. We attended the first night of action of the Deutsches Cup, with the US beating Germany 3-2 in a shootout at Olympiahalle. The locals were not so pleased, but we couldn't stop waving the American flag and singing the National Anthem (they sing it after the game for the winning team.) The level of play was quite good as the American team pulled many of their best players from European hockey teams to compete in the tournament. Games continue through the weekend.

Smoken Stroll in Lehel

Just across from the great Hofgartenkaserne building, the old military facility built in 1801 that sits at the edge of the Hofgarten, is the neighborhood of Lehel. It's one of the most desirable neighborhoods in town, as it's literally a stone's throw from the Altstadt, English Garden, and the Isar River. I caught this picture on a little side street called Pilotystrasse, which has a line of old but remodeled apartments. I remember viewing one when we first moved to Munich, and it was a renovated attic on the 6th floor with views overlooking the residence and just about every spire in downtown. Spectacular. Non functional, as the attic was literally pieced together, but spectacular all the same. Despite a roar of traffic that surrounds Lehel on Franz-Joseph-Strass-Ring, Prinzregentenstrasse, and Widenmeyerstrasse (three of the busiest in Munich), once you are 100 meters into the winding streets of Lehel, it's quiet and peaceful.

Going Postal

In Munich there are fewer more well known brands than Deutsche Post - present all over Germany. Little did I know that they were present all over the world. In fact, they are the world's largest logistics group. Headquartered in Bonn, Deutsche Post has 470,000 employees in 220 countries. It has leveraged its monopoly business as the only German mail carrier (70 million letters delivered per day), and has expanded agressively since privitization in 1995. Since then, it has acquited industry giants DHL and Airborne Express, among many others. Now the company manages three distinct brands: Deutsche Post, DHL, and Postbank, their financial division. But back to the title of my post...our experience has been a bit of a nightmare when it comes to everyday engagements with the Deutsche Post. I'm afriad the local post is the same everywhere in the world.

Backpacking Through Europe

This site brings new meaning to this pop-culture term. The view is part of an exhibit at the Haus der Kunst at the base of the English Gardens. You may remember this museum as the one made famous by Adolf Hitler for his showcase of German "approved" art and today is made famous for beinging anything but nationalistic art. Instead, it stays on the cutting edge of showing some of the more innovative modern art travelling through Munich. The current exhibit from Chinese artist, Al Weiwei, is no exception. For the facade of the museum, he collected 9000 backpacks in five different colors to represent the number of children who were killed in the 2008 Sichuan earthquake. The design makes up the sentence in Chinese, "...for seven years she lived happily on this earth." - a sentence in which a mother of one of the earthquake victims commemorated her daughter.

The Headless Horsemen

Happy Halloween! Of course, they don't really celebrate Halloween in Munich or anywhere in Germany, but I just couldn't help sharing this photo of dad and his two trusty side kicks. How they became headless, no one will tell. But it's just not every day you see such a scene in the regularly up & up Munich. I've searched far and near, and the only Halloween celebrations I can come up with are a few under-30 parties and some ex-pats hosting parties. But to be forewarned, Germans think of Haloween as something very different than Americans. Little kids dressed up in fun outfits, are replaced with gore, gore, gore. Not sure why this difference, but it's a bit of a shock if you are expecting anything but vampires and demons.

Neptune's Garden

On the other side, you have the Nymphenburg gardens, with the close-by botanical gardens, this represents one of the largest inner-city parks in Europe. More than a 200-hectacre park, this space has seen its side of personality renewals - Italian, French, German & English - all within the past 300 years and expanding with each redesign.. At one point it was desinged by an apprentice of the same designer who created Versailles. From this picture, you can see the large 900 meter canal that bisects the park and extends from the palace all the way to the S1 train line. At points, the canal is lined with statues of Greek gods. Apparently, there have been few changes tot he gardens since about 1800, which you can enjoy on any given day in Munich.

Swan Song

The two sides of Nymphenburg Palace. One one side, you have a rare glimpse into Bavarian royalty, as the great Baroque palace was built in 1675 (the two ousdie pavallions were added in 1701) as the Summer residence of the rulers of Bavaria. This was also the site where King Ludwig II was born in 1845. The palace was then extended over time to reach its current length of about 700 meters long, and it is still lived in today by the chancery for the head of the house of Wittlesbach, currently Franz, Duke of Bavaria. A small amount of the Palace is open to the public today, with its extensive ceiling frescos, Nymphenburg porcelain workshop, and one of the most important ancient carriage museums. Today, Nymphenburg is one of the most visited cultural sites in Bavaria, with more than 300,000 visitors annually, even more than the Munich Residence in the center of town. And unlike the Residence, Nymphenburg palace does not appear to have been destroyed during WWII, maintaining much of its original decor and charm.

In the Heart of Art Nouveau

If you are going to check out art in Munich, there is no time frame that is more relevant to the city than Art Nouveau. Munich was one of the big centers of Art Nouveau development during the backdrop of the industrial revolution. Along with cities like Paris, Brussels, Amsterdam and New York, Munich was on the forefront. So it's always exciting when a bit of that type of art comes back through Munich today. Well not since the Kandinsky exhibit inspired lines of people blocks long have I seen a show so strong in Munich as the Alfons Mucha show at the Kunsthalle, just 100m from the Residence.. Mucha was a Czech born artist who spend several years in Munich before landing in Paris, where he received worldwide fame for his poster art, including those for Sarah Bernhardt, the famous theatre actress. Mucha formed a six year contract to produce Bernhardt's promotion posters, and many of those examples are in the show. Also at the exhibit is a recreation of Mucha's designs at the Bosnia-Herzegovina pavillion for the Paris World's Fair in 1900. It's quite impressive to see the walls of this palace rebuilt in downtown Munich. Eventually, Mucha left Paris to return to his hometown of Prague, and many of his local works have been reconstructed for the show. If you ever wanted a good taste of Art Nouveau, this is a good place for it.

Speed Demons

About the only thing moving slow on Ludwigstrasse is the planned renovation of the University church, Ludwigskirche. Although the renovation was supposed to complete by now, a discovery of Asbestos, has delayed the reopening until at least Palm Sunday, 2010. The church is an icon along one of Munich's busiest streets, with its neo-romanesque style and two arches. The church also is said to have the largest altar fresco in the world. Like most of this part of the city, it was commissioned by King Ludwig I and built in 1829. The church then became the model for many other churches around the world, including the Alterchenfelder Pfarrkirche in Vienna, the St. George's Episcopal church in New York City, the Bowdoin College Chapel in Brunswick Maine, and the Congregational church of the pilgrims in Brooklyn. I was hoping that the delayed work inside would have prompted the University to white-wash the outside, as the spectacular facade looks quite neglected, but no sign of that as of yet.

Kickin it at Karlsplatz

Karlsplatz is the main square between the Hauptbahnhof and Marienplatz, and it is the end of the major pedestrian walkway through the Altstadt, marked by the gothic gate - Karlstor. It was oficially named Karlsplatz in 1791 after the unpopular Elector Karl Theodor, but all the locals know the place as Stachus, named after the innkeeper Eustachius Stachel, who had a popular pub until the time that Theodor laid out Karlsplatz. some also say that Stachus is actually named after the word "Stachel" or prickle to indicate arrow - as the area was was used by marksmen in the middle ages. Today the platz is often one of the busiest in Munich with its enormous water fountain (seen in the background), but its proximity to the central station and the Altstadtring of traffic gives it a very mixed clientele.

A Night Out with Ottmar

Not too long ago we spent an amazing evening out at a concert by German-born composer Ottmar Liebert. We had been fans of Liebert for years, but actually assumed that - based upon his music and not his name - that he had a Latin background. He plays amazing Latin guitar, and the show was just us, him and and one of the most inspiring groups of photographs (all his) I've ever seen. No surprise, they fit his music perfectly. It turns out that he makes many passes through Munich, as it's close to his home in Germany. Check him out online, or better yet in person if you get the chance.

Goin on the Cheap

There's no shortage of low cost airlines flying in/out of Munich. Some of the more popular names include Aer Lingus, AirBaltic, and Easy Jet. Or if you are a little more adventurous you can try Clickair or Jet2com. One of the largest all over Germany is Air Berlin, which is recognized at the only low cost German airline. I'm not quite certain if they are focused more on bringing people to or from Munich, but they generally hit all the popular Mediterranean spots, including Athens, Malaga, Milan, and Nice. It appears that Lufthansa is not the only game in town any more, especially because Air Berln is covering many of the Northern German
cities like Berlin, Cologne, and Dusseldorf. I caught this photo at the airport, in the comon space between termanals 1 and 2. I've always enjoyed this space as it has lots of retail, beer gardens, and even skating in the Winter. It's also the location where planes, tranes, and automobils come together.

The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe

Well, I suppose if it was the story of the Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe, it would be an alternate universe version as the original story takes place in England during WWII. Yet I was really stricken by these two young girls dressed in red at the base of the two Bavarian Lions at Odeonsplatz. The lions mark the entry of the Feldherrnhall, or Field Marshall's Hall at the base of Ludwigstrasse. Odeonsplatz is one of the more beautiful around Munich, at the conjunction between the Hofgarten, the Residenz, the Theatine Church, and the entry into Schwabing and the University District. The platz has no shortage of Munich history wrapped up into it, as it was formed in 1791 as the medieval city wall was was demolished.

Blazin Saddles

As temperatures plunged nearly 40 degrees Farenheit over the past week or so, you can see Munich go directly from Summer to Winter. With temperatures in the high 30s this week, bikes from no fewer than 5 tour companies around town are getting locked up for the Winter. It's hard to believe that we've had three days of snow in Munich this past week, and the week before everyone was sitting out in the parks for their last glimpse of sun. Well, if you ever come to Munich at a warmer time, a bike is a great way to see the city. But i say lose the tour and the guide, and go out adventuring on your own - through the English Garden, Schwabing, and the Olympic Park. You'll love it.

Night Rider

As if surfing on the Eisbad was not crazy enough. If you've read this post before, you know the story. A perfect wave is created as a leg of the Isar River enters the English Garden, making a perfect ampitheatre for the surfers, and onlookers above. The downside is it's incredibly dangerous, as there are rocks only milimeters below the water surface at some points. Add to this the craziness of surfing at night. We walked by to find the surf illumiated by floodlights and a generator last weekend, with no shortage of surfers. Are these guys mad? Maybe. They disregard the "danger of death" signs posted near by and so do the cops. This is a signature of Munich, and I hope it stays this way. Stay safe out there.

Munich Marathon

First of all, sorry for my delay in posting. I've been absolutely hijacked by T-Mobile, and have lost my internet access. Not a good scene. I'm posting this over the cellular netowrk. Also not a good thing. But let me let you know what you've been missing in Munich. First of all, we had the 24th annual Munich Marathon, where over 10,000 runners pound the pavement - in this case the cobblestone pavement in front of the Glyptotek Museum. This shot was taken at the KM post 35, and the band was out in full force, rooting the runners on. I'm not sure who this band is, but I see them all over Munich, and they are an absolute blast. So much so, that this character caught me looking in between drum beats, and in the end stole the show.

Residenz Week

Now that we are finished with that Oktoberfest madness, it's time to get to some of Munich's more refined cultural side. Specifically, today kicks off the week celebrating one of Munich's most important addresses - the Munich Residence. This this the downtown Schloss that was the set of government and residence of the Bavarian dukes, electors, and knings from 1508 to 1918. And despite being demolished during WWII, it's still one of the coolest spots in Munich. There are literally 10 events scheduled each day. So we went to a concert on opening night, and it was an amazing choir that certainly lifted our spirits. What was most amazing about the event though, was the setting. The concert took place in the Hall of Antiquities (Antiquarium), which was built in 1568 for the art collection of Albert V. It is said to be the largest Ranaissance hall north of the Alps, and was later remodeled into a banquet hall. Although this picture doesn't do the hall justice, it's by far the most stunning in the Residence.

The Grand Finale

Well after 3 weeks, I think I (and most of the locals in Munich) have had their fill of Oktoberfest. it's one of those strange things that you can't wait for, but then once you are there it becomes a bit overwhelming. I really wanted to end Oktoberfest with this image though, because it represents a lot of what I love about Oktoberfest. Even if you don't know the people at your table, everyone is stiff and reserved at the beginning of the night. But it's not long before it seems like everyone is friends. So farewell to all of our new firends for this year, and now onto other things aorund Munich.

The Stars of München TV

I don't know the whole story here, but this couple are absolute stars of the Oktoberfest. If you haven't seen them before, then you've never watched Munchen TV. Because during Oktoberfest, they are on the TV around the clock. I'm talking 24-hours a day, they seem to be hosting a show live from the Hofbrau tent. So when we came across this unique pairing, I knew I had to share them with you. And when they started interviewing our crew, it got even better. Theyr'e actually quite quirky, as they ramble on and on with 5000 revelers screaming in the background. I have to say that I have not seen them on any other coverage, so perhaps they work around the clock for 2.5 weeks, but then get the rest of the year off. Not a bad gig if you can get it.

Dandelion

Here's the view at Oktoberfest looking up form the carousel. From this vantage point, the little moving horses of the carousel seem overwhelmingly safe, while this contraption is one of the festivals highest points. I took pictures of this same ride on day 5 or so of Oktoberfest, and most of the seats were empty. Most people say that this was a down year for Oktoberfest, with attendance significantly down from years past because of the threat of terrorism and a down economy kept people from travelling. I will try to find some real stats from the local news. But having been at the world's biggest beer garden on the final days, I'm not sure how they could have packed any additional people into the Wiesn grounds. So perhaps in the end, it was just a bit less hairy and crazy than in previous years.

One More Round

Oktoberfest may be finishing today, but we certainly are not. Oktoberfest officially ends today, but I may stretch it out a few more days because we have plenty of impressions to share, stories to tell, and photos to post. Here's one from the Paulaner tent, which I would describe as crunchy on the outside, but juicy in the middle. The outside rows of the tent were filled with company sponsorships, where everyone was festive, and enjoying the novelty of being at Oktoberfest. On the other hand, they were all quite reserved (at least for the first few hours) as they knew there would be stoires for years among their co-workers. With nenough beer though, even the largest barriers are forgotten and everyone was soon toasting wiht all the tables aorund them. In the middle of the tent though, near the band, that's what I lovingly call the Mosh Pit. With everyone standing on the benches and tables, it was like walking sown a narrow hallway, with revelers hanging over each side. It was simply amazing. This couple was clearly leading by example.

Smashing Saturday

The Oktoberfest capped off two weeks of good weather with a blowout Saturday. This was the scene by 11 am with rides full, and by noon all the tents were closed due to over capacity. There were points where it was difficult to walk through the hoards of people. And you see the impact all over Munich, as many restaurants run at low or no capacity. One hostess mentioned that when the weather is good, everyone stays at Oktoberfest because they can sit at the outdoor beer gardens. Lots of locals said this was the first dry (meaning weather, and certainly not alcohol consumption) Oktoberfest they could remember. The word on the stree tis that attendance is down this year, but you would have not known it yesterday. Either way, we had to escape by about noon, to where esle, a beer garde - at least one that was not quite so busy.

Apres Wiesn Party

Just because Oktoberfest shuts down at 11 pm each night, doesn't mean the party stops around Munich. All over the city, you will find Apres Wiesn parties lasting into the wee hours of the morning. Many of the local bars take a big hit as residents and guests stay at Oktoberfest, and this is one of the ways the bars keep Oktoberfest profitable. This was the scene at one of our favorite beer gardens, the Park Cafe. A local DJ was guest starring, but it was the two go-go girls who seemed to steal the show. The Park Cafe is one of those places that doubles as a Sunday brunch location with live Jazz music, and as a lively club at night. It's proximity to the central station and the Wiesn, meant it was packed every night after Oktoberfest, and this night was no exception with about 500 people there.

Love is in the Air

Oh yes, love is everywhere at Oktoberfest...at least in the form of thousands of gingerbread hearts, decorated with amazingly sweet and colorful icing. The ginerbread (like) hearts are actually called Lebkuchen, and it is a mainstay at German festivals. Despite having origins dating back to the Egyptions, the modern day Lebkuchen dates back to 1296 where it was made in Ulm and Nurnberg. Today Nurnberg is the number one producer and exporter of the product, and it's become known as the Nurnberger Lebkuchen. The tradition started when Nurnberg emperor Friedrich III invited more than 4000 children of the city for a Lebkuchen bearing his printed portrait. Now Oktoberfest is reaping the benefits, with inscriptions of everything from names, to famous Bavarian greetings, to sophmoric beer drinking statements - all in the fun of Oktoberfest.

The Friends You Meet Along the Way

This is the second year in a row I’ve done a similar post on this, because I’m amazed that every time I go to Oktoberfest and sit in one of the tents or outdoor beer gardens – I always meet some very cool and interesting people. Some are passing through Munich on a tour through Europe, others are long-term residents from Bavaria, others are students hoping to catch a bit of the party. The world is converging on Munich, and it’s fun to watch the population swing through in hopes of picking up a bit of the Bavarian culture. But for all of you who only come through Munich during this time of revelry, you should know that the same spirit is there year round, wrapped into what a beergarden culture is supposed to be. Casual, laid back, and friendly.

The Breathalyzer Girl

It’s not every day that the tools of police work enter your party. But this is Oktoberfest, and this is the Hofbrau tent, where it takes with pride the reputation of being the drunkest tent on the Oktoberfest grounds. Here you will find the highest number of foreigners, generally not prone to drinking in such great quantities, and definitely not accustomed to drinking the stronger Oktoberfest beers. Besides, if you can make a few $$ off it, then it generally shows up here. So here’s the deal. You pay the nice lady to get your alcohol level tested for no other reason than to gain bragging rights for getting your level so high. This is the disgusted look of one of the party goers when he only registered a .25 (note that .08 is considered too drunk to drive in the US). When asked what the highest of the day was, she said a blood alcohol rate of .8. I didn’t know this was actually possible. At any rate, the man pictured took solace in the fact that he received a nice certificate telling of his accomplishments, and successfully fell down the stairs as he walked away. Yes. That’s Oktoberfest at the Hofbrau Tent.

The Power of the Dirndl

One of the most “visibile” elements of Oktoberfest is the traditional Bavarian clothing – the lederhosen and dirndls. They are fantastic, and you see these colorful outfits all over town and all over Oktoberfest. Now most people go the traditional route with bold colors and beautiful aprons, and others… well they go a completely different direction. Take the table next to us in the Hofbrau tent last night. If this woman was revealing any more of her fine Bavarian tradition, I wouldn’t be able to show it on this blog. Everyone knows the dirndl is all about tactfully showing off the breasts, but some of the new styles go a little too far. But perhaps the man across from her doesn’t agree. I can’t tell if he is really drunk, or just mesmerized by her breasts.

Leading the Calf to the Slaughter

That’s the way it felt trying to squeeze out of Hackerbrucke S-bahn station on the way to the Oktoberfest. Hundreds of party goers arrived on each train, and the local police had crowd control down to a science – keeping everyone clear of the train, and funneling arrivals through one stairway, and drunk departures through another. The entire bridge is shut down, and only available for pedestrians. This was how most of the Oktoberfest felt during “Italian” weekend where thousands of Italians come up and take over the fest. On the sides of the photo, you can see the endless construction of new homes and shopping center, which are reinventing and reforming the neighborhoods around the tracks. I’m told that 16,000 new units will be created by the time construction is complete.

A Topys-Turvy World

Especially when you are the world’s biggest beer garden. Like most beer gardens in Munich, the kids stuff is always nearby – so that both adults and kids can have a play day. I mentioned the rides at Oktoberfest yesterday, as you have more than 70 rides and shows to pick from; and you’re sure to see the rides packed on Tuesdays as it’s family day, and rides are half price. Like every year at Oktoberfest, you will always find a few new rides. One of the new features for 2009 is “The Tower,” which is sort of a big vertical playground inside, as well as great views atop the 28M tower. In the same theme, you will also find the “Silberturm,” a 10M tower which you ride to the top and free fall to the bottom. And finally, you will find Psychedelic, which is, no surprise, a tribute to the hippies, which leads you through a crazy labyrinth. With all those new items, I ended up selecting an “oldie, but a goodie” for today’s photo – the endless slide. I just loved the contrast of the father and son silhouette gliding through the up and down world that is Oktoberfest.

Birds of a Feather, Fly Together

Who says Oktoberfest is all about the beer tents? In addition to the massive 14 beer halls at Oktoberfest (each one has the capacity of up to 5000), you will find an endless variety of rides and amusements – everything from roller coasters to bumper cars, to fun houses. I came across these three young ladies in traditional wear hanging out on some sort of vertical carousel. I stopped by on a weekday afternoon, and loved all the festivities. You find that energy there every day of the week. I mentioned this many times before, but the great thing about Oktoberfest is how excited and passionate the locals get about the celebration. Sure you have 6 million visitors each year, but in Munich you see people in traditional clothes all over town – at work, on the S-bahn, and certainly heading over to the Wiessen. Sunday will be our night at the beer hall, with a table reserved with great friends. I look forward to sharing an insider view with you.

And so it Begins...

So I’ve been a bit delayed getting over to Oktoberfest – a full week in fact. Last year, our first full year in Munich, I felt I was at Oktoberfest every day in September. This year, I thought I would ease into it, and what better day than Family Day? Why ease into it, you ask? Well Oktoberfest in Munich is an all-encompassing thing. Take a look at the local papers and you will understand - 50% of the articles are already on Oktoberfest – beer, beer, and more beer. If you are in Munich, there’s no way of getting around it. So you might as well strap on your Lederhosen and dirndl and join the party. So lots more to come in the next few days, but I thought I would share this picture of a regal couple in front of the Spaten beer trailer. They look amazing, and amazingly Bavarian. It was the strangest thing. It seemed that in front of every beer trailer, there was someone with matching color, pattern, and demeanor. It was like a beer endorsement around every corner. In the end, it was just people having fun at Oktoberfest.

Watching the Ladies

In so many ways, Munich is no different than anywhere else on the planet. I came across this group of boys sitting at the Augistiner Beerhall on Neuhauser Strasse, looking all so casual, checking out the ladies passing by. This is life in the Altstadt on a sunny day, packed with people passing by. The Augustiner Beerhall is actually in the location of the original Augustiner Brewery, which has since moved out to Landsburgerstasse – just outside the center of Munich. This remains the only one of six Munich breweries that is family-run. All the others – Franziskaner, Spaten, Lowenbrau, Paulaner, and Hofbrau have all been purchased by conglomerates like in-bev. The age of the independent brewing is long gone, and only a few exist to this day.

The Global Blockbuster

Like most places in Europe, Munich receives its share of Hollywood blockbusters. In fact, more and more often these are coordinated across a global scale. Avatar, this year’s expected Hollywood blockbuster directed by James Cameron, will hit Germany and 31 other countries on or around Dec. 17th. Advertising – in colossal form (this sign is about 50 feet high on the front of the multi-plex movie house at Karlsplatz), has already started three months in advance. In addition to the incredible amount of multi-plex movie houses that have opened up in Munich in the past 15 years, you can still find quaint, single screen movie houses around Munich – especially in the Schwabing neighborhood. Usually they are nestled between apartments on side streets, and really targeted at the neighborhood residents. Unfortunately, much like in the US, these theatres look to also be dying out; so catch a movie in one of these great theatres before they are all gone.

Summer’s Fading Moments

Two women get their information fix at the base of the Max-Joseph statue in the platz by the same name in one of the fleeting glimpses of Summer. Max-Joseph Platz is flanked by the Residence, the National Opera House, the Residence strasse, and Maximillian Strasse. It’s one of the many large open spaces in the center of Munich. Apparently, King Max-Joseph didn’t like the design of his statue, which is seated and giving a blessing. He preferred an equestrian pose, but after the king died suddenly in 1825, the first draft of the design was accepted and has been standing there ever since. Max-Joseph was a great opera fan and built the Opera House. The building burnt down shortly after its completion, but was rebuilt with the money raised by taxing – what else – but beer.

Are YOU Ready?

Octoberfest starts in 3 days, 12 hours, and 35 minutes – not that anyone is counting. You are hard pressed to find anything in Munich that is not impacted – positively and negatively – by Octoberfest. We have a table reserved at one of the tents, late in the Octoberfest season, which this year runs from Sept. 19th to October 4th. So I will try to share with you some interesting perspectives. This weekend kicks off Octoberfest with several parades (including the colorful costume parade) and the tapping of the first keg by Munich Mayor Christian Ude. Then it’s nearly three weeks of non-stop partying from 10 am to 11 pm, and then parties spread out across Munich after that. So pull out your dirndl and lederhosen (which is viewed in Munich as everything from common person’s clothes to formal wear), and get ready to join the festivities. You get a peek here of some at some of the more modern, and honestly less interesting fashions this year from Karstadt.

Loosening Up About Sex

No big surprise here. Attitudes toward sex make up one of the more interesting cultural divides between Europe and the US. Europeans tend to have much more liberal views when it comes to sex and their bodies, and it shows all over life here. Even in conservative Bavaria, there’s no shortage of nudity in the parks or at beaches along the rivers. There have also been reports of state sponsored shows and documentaries throughout Europe, that would be considered pornographic in the US. I came across this listing for the top story of the day in the local newspaper: “What women want. The top 20 sex tips.” I didn’t pick up the paper, but I’m sure it had no shortage of graphic photos. In the US, you are more likely to see violence on TV and in magazines than sex. I personally think the Europeans are onto something, and us Americans should lighten up a bit.

A Late Look at Lilalu

I’m a little late on this post, as it’s been a week since I visited the Lilalu festival at the Olympic park I’m not quite sure I understand this particular kinder festival. I think it has the most captivating poster (which I tried to repeat in the photo), yet the festival itself seems to be a bit desolate. It reminds me of the travelling carnivals in the US, always a bit random, a bit make-shift and a bit creepy. At this event, you found rides sprawling out in every direction across the gravel field, then a big stage where entertainers sang and danced with the kids, the customary hippy shops, and a play area so dark very few kids played there. The saving grace was the firemen showing the kids how to use the hoses – which was quite cute - and the parachute play (pictured here).

Bavarian Bookends

I came across this funny scene with a bare-chested man in front of the Jewish Community Center at St. Jakobs-Platz, with two female onlookers. I’ve written many times about open nudity throughout Munich, but even this shirtless man seemed a bit out of place in the busy and uptight square. The idea of a Jewish museum in Munich originated likely before the bare man was born, 78 years ago. But it wasn’t until 2007 that it was inaugurated. The facility now houses an elementary school, kindergarten, and youth center. The museum is designed as a freestanding cube with a transparent ground floor lobby. The two top floors house changing exhibitions, a learning center, and a library. The museum had one primary benefactor, the City of Munich – which still manages the facility today.

Hofbrau History

The brewery of the Royal Court, Dukes, creation of and monopoly for Weissbeer, Munich’s first beer festival, a home for the Nazi party, total destruction by allied bombing, and reconstruction better than ever before… It’s all part of the amazing history that is the Hofbrau house. What was founded in 1579 by Wilhelm V, the Duke of Bavaria, as a response of the costly import of beer from Einbeck - is now a worldwide phenomenon. Over the past decade, the Hofbrau House has expanded across Germany and the rest of the world. You will now find breweries in Miami, Pittsburgh, Newport, and Las Vegas. Known for inspiring the famous song and the phrase, "oans, zwoa, g'suffa" (bavarian dialect for: "one, two, chug"), the Hofbrau brewery has been a central part of the Octoberfest since its beginnings. Although it’s not my favorite beerhall in Munich ( you can do much better with Lowenbrau, Augustiner) because of the tremendous amount of tourists, you can find tours in English Tuesday through Thursday by appointment only.

Lady in Red

I came across this woman, wonderfully dressed, in the old style arcades that line Maxmilianstrasse Strasse. My best guess is that she was on her way to the opera, across the street at the National Theatre. There’s no shortage of events – either Opera or Ballet – at the National Theatre. Seems to be one every day, and night. Not to be undone by her bright red shawl, the woman had florescent red hair – I’m sure to match a bright personality. Not sure what it is in Germany, but you tend to see hair dyed very dramatically. The street is filled with neo-Gothic architecture as one of the four royal avenues leading into the Altstadt. The Western side (as pictured here) is the city’s most exclusive with Dolce & Gabanna, Versace, Louis Vuitton, Dior, Chanel, Gucci, and Dior.

Surfs Up…At Least for Now

I’ve posted about the world famous Eisbach in downtown Munich before. Apparently, the concept and sport of river surfing was invented in Munich, back in 1972 on several points along the Isar River. Over the years, the wave at Eisbach has been modified to create a perfect standing wave, which is about 1 meter high and only 12 meters wide. There are constant battles between experienced surfers and beginners, as the Eisbach is quite dangerous and the regulars know that any severe accidents could shut them down for good. The river surfing has always been illegal, but has never been enforced. Apparently there is a better wave for beginners in Flosslande, near Thalkirchen U-Bahn station, and a third wave on the Isar near the bridge Wittlesbacherbruke – but only on flood levels.

Play it Again, Sam.

I’m not sure what the regulations are for street performers in the Altstadt of Munich, but more and more of these entertainers seem to be showing up around town every day. Perhaps out of work means a lot of free time on their hands. Usually you find jokers, jugglers, and sometimes musicians. I came across this young lady strumming her banjo for a small crowd of onlookers. I’m not sure if it’s a characteristic of being on holiday, that represents having more time on your hands – but it’s amazing what will draw a crowd. It’s not just Munich, but you see them around the world. Silver Man, who is spray painted head-to-toe in silver, the table guy who has his head through the top of the table and surrounded by fruit. And, of course, the real entertainers who play music, act, or otherwise captivate the locals and tourist alike. More power to them.

Having a Ball

Whether you call it Bocce or Pétanque or kegeln (German version - Thanks Holger), there’s no question that the traditional game of choice by the Italians and French alike involve throwing metal balls around and trying to get closest to the jack. Go to any park in Southern France, or in areas around Italy and you see older men going at it on a 25 meter playing surface. Often you will find groups lined up next to each other, for the game that seems to be as much social as it is competition. It’s the European version of bowling, but instead of dating to the 50s, dates back to the Roman Empire. Therefore, you will find it anywhere you find Italians – and there are no shortage in the Northern-most Italian city, Munich. At some time in the early 1900s, the game was rebranded in France as Pétanque in Provence and has lived on in its own right. Today, you can find Bocce or Pétanque primarily in the Hofgarten of Munich. I was happy to see a whole new generation of players, between the age of 20-30, bringing new life to the competition.

The Blind Leading the Blind

Several boys passing by take notice of a blind beggar on Sendlinger Strasse. The blind man is a regular on this spot, and becomes as much of the neighborhood reputation as the trendy stores around him. In general, Munich is a good a safe place for a blind person to be living. There are multiple academies to support blind students and the social programs provide much support for the blind. However, that doesn’t prevent horrible accidents like the one that killed a 29 year old blind woman one month ago – who mistook the space between two U-bahn cars as a door and fell into the tracks. I see blind people making their way through the central station quite often, with a pep in their step that many of the first-time visitors do not even have. It gives me a tremendous amount of respect for them

Coffee in a Time Machine

I came across this great café on Agustenstrasse, which just called out for a different age. Judging by the interior, I’d say it looked this way since its heyday in the 50s. Old yellow upholstery on the lounge chairs, gold wall paper, and waitresses who look like they’ve worked there for decades. Every time I go by it, it’s filled with couples and friends who fill up the old-school lounge seats or the outdoor seats on sunny days. And somehow with its living room atmosphere, it’s one of those places you feel like you need an invitation for – or to be in the “in” crowd, which is amazing as it’s a bit of a dive. But I think that’s what people love about it – an ageless beauty. This was the scene after midnight the other night, which in itself is strange for a neighborhood café – when everything else seems to close at 8 pm. No surprise that the cafe is a favorte of students at the nearby univeristy.

Munich’s own “Red Balloon”

I came across this little girl with a cluster of balloons dragging along wherever she went. It immediately reminded me of the old film, The Red Balloon. Of course, the movie is French – set in Paris. Albert Lamorisse directed the film in 1956, and it immediately became a worldwide favorite. Both of his children starred in the movie. The movie ends as some bullies destroy the friendly red balloon, and other balloons from all over the city come to the little boy’s rescue. At any point, you expect these balloons to take flight, and pull the little girl out of the Hofgarten where she is playing, while a mix of Munich locals and tourists taking notice - and well over the English Garden only to land in some quaint Bavarian village.

Inner City Sanctuaries

I’m not quite sure how to describe St. Boniface’s church and abbey, only 200 meters from the central train station. On one hand, it’s a part of Munich history, as it was instated by King Ludwig I as an attempt to reanimate the country’s spiritual life, and today’s houses the tomb of Ludwig I himself. On the other hand, today it is a parish church, serving the surrounding community. It’s a bit strange to look at the building, as it was nearly completely destroyed during WWII, and only partially reconstructed – yet you can see every detail that is new vs old. In some ways, it embodies the German people – certainly shocked and destroyed by the defeat of the allied powers, and in some ways embarrassed by the local role in the holocaust; yet absolutely resolute that today they are doing the right thing. It’s a contrast that I don’t think exists in the US, and honestly one that I hope is never needed there.

At Rest

It turns out this is a nice contrast to yesterday’s photo of “On the Move.” Seems construction sites are the same throughout the world – with 5 people standing around while watching one person dig. As a matter of fact, no one was doing much work at this construction site. It seems like the entire city is under construction – with the never-ending construction on highway 9 as you enter the city, an amazing amount of streets torn up, and even well known monuments like the Frauenkiche going through renovation. You see this a lot around Europe these days, especially with the rotating EU presidency, which pumps investment into capital cities every 18 months. Germany is not in that line, but you wouldn’t know. I believe a lot of these projects began before the economic downturn. At any rate, these guys don’t care. They’re picking up a check every month. And as we are finding out through the “Cash for Clunkers” program that has been, a little government investment in a down economy is never a bad idea.

On the Move

A visit to the Munich Airport shows non-stop activity – people coming and going from around the world. Officially called Flughafen München-Franz Josef Strauß – named after a popular German politician, it serves as a hub for Lufthansa. It is the second busiest airport in Germany and eighth busiest in the world, with 35 million passengers per year. The thing that always amazes me about the Munich airport, is how it’s built like a mini Sim-City, with airport overlapping with train, car, bus, bike, and foot traffic. The airport infrastructure is larger than most Bavarian villages around, with hotels, convention center, shopping center, entertainment, cinema, and visitor center, and of course brew pub. This image was taken on one of the many moving sidewalks on the lower level of Terminal 1.

Warhol Meets Munich

Munich’s newest (and by far the most colorful) museum is the Brandhorst Museum, which opened in May of this year. With more than 700 works, including more than 100 by Andy Warhol; the museum is a strong compliment to Munich’s Pinakothek der Moderne. The collection stems from the heirs of the Henkel (home & personal care company based in Dusseldorf) trust and Anette Brandhorst. The museum is actually most well known for its colorful exterior. The façade looks like an abstract painting itself, with its 23 different colored glazes as its image changes based upon your vantage point. The museum also has an impressive endowment of €120 million, which in normal years gives the museum an acquisition budget of more than €2 million, much more than any other collection in Munich.

Where's the Schinken?

Somehow it doesn't have the same ring as that American phrase - Where's the Beef? Meat is an important element of the German diet, and no type of meat is more popular in Germany than pork. This photo illustrates the scene in hundreds of butchers across Munich. Germans are famous for their sausage. They have 4 basic types of sausage (Wurst) - Rohwurst, Bruhwurst, Kockwurst, and Bratwurst. In 2008, German people consumed 62 kilos per person – of which 40% was pork, according to the German Butcher Organisation Deutscher Fleischer-Verband (DFV). This ranks Germans among one of the highest consumers of meat in the EU, obtaining 39% of their total calorie intake from meat products, compared with 25% in Italy (which could explain the average size difference in the two countries), according to Germany’s federal environmental agency. With that said, meat consumption is on the decline in Germany – mostly because of health concerns.

The White Rose

A late-night rendezvous of two lovers at the Ludwig Maximillian University fountains at Professor Huber Platz in Munich. The White Rose refers not only to the look of the fountain behind the couple, but also an intellectual, non-violent uprising to Nazi occupation in Germany during WWII. Professor Kurt Huber came in contact with the movement through some students in his lectures, and the group published a series of flyers calling for the end of National Socialism. Six leaders of the group, including Huber, were discovered by the Gestabo, arrested and killed. The legacy of the White Rose lives on in the media, in monuments like these, and in the German psyche.

Back on the Ground

Now that we are done with aerial views around Munich, I thought I would show you some scenes back on the ground. I came across this image, and it struck me as I think it sums up some of the persona of Germans. Amazingly confident. Some might say arrogant. We are regularly stopped on the street by strangers and told we are doing something wrong, or by neighbors who discover we recycled incorrectly. It also reminds me that although some locals are friendly and jovial, many others are unapproachable and stand-offish. Perhaps this is like any place, but this characteristic really seems to stand out in Munich. In the end, I like how this person stands out from the busy market in the background – in this case at the Sendlingertor gate. In this way, it is different from the norm – fiercely independent in a society geared toward conformity.

Bavarian “Village” Life

Above Munich – Day 15: And for our final day of images from Above Munich, I take you far above the city – this time from an airplane. This photo was taken on the approach to Joseph Strauss Airport, just North of Munich. From this vantage point you can see the endless fields and forests that surround Munich. You also notice how green the region is. Once you get out of the cities, these areas are littered with quaint little villages – each with their towering church steeples, rich decorations, local food markets, and Christmas fairs. Much of life doesn’t seem to have changed for hundreds of years in these small villages. And much of the reason Munich is called a “Large Village” is because with 1.3 million residents, it maintains a lot of that tradition that has lived out in these small villages for centuries.

High Flyin Images

Above Munich - Day 14: And in really big news for Germany, SKY TV has finally arrived. It’s such big news that this advertisement covers the entire side of the Royal Residence. This is big news because even most Germans claim that German Cable is absolutely terrible. Unfortunately, we are still out of luck, as SKY requires a 1 meter dish that management of our old building would not allow. So for now, we are taunted by the ad. Of course, the Residence is already covered over, as construction continues. You can see the poster image of the side of the building below the advertisement. Covering up famous buildings with an image of what the building looks like is a widespread European practice, which I am a big fan of. The advertisements over them, are met with much debate – especially when they are images (like this one) which don’t complement the building.

Munich’s Gothic Revival

Above Munich – Day 13: While everyone knows the front of the Gothic Rathaus with its famous (albeit touristy) Glockenspiel, this photo shows its less famous side – the inner courtyard. You can see the inherent shape of the building, with its endless hallways and grand spiraling cement staircase. You can also see one of its hidden treasures, with the outside beer garden and entry to the Ratskeller restaurant with its six inner courtyards. The type of architecture, considered Gothic Revival, dates back to the 1740s in England as an attempt to revive medieval buildings in line with a resurgence of the Anglican Catholic church. But it was in the late 1800s and early 1900s when most of the Gothic structures around Europe (including this one) were built.

Looking out Across the Isar

Above Munich – Day 12: From downtown, this is the vantage point overlooking the Bell Brook and Au neighborhoods. Most prominent in the picture is the Catholic parish church of St. Maximilian, just before the Isar River. The 70m towers overlook the green park and beaches of the Isar. In fact, every year from mid-May to August 16, a beach bar is set up just up river at the Cornelius Bridge, with these towers as a magnificent backdrop. I have not been there, but I hear it’s great – and you have a couple more weeks before it disappears. But back to St. Max. It was built in 1908 in a neo-Roman style, like several others around town built during this same period, including St. Benno and St. Anna in Lehel. Unfortunately, much of the church was destroyed during WWII, as allied forces used the Isar river to guide their planes during nightfall. When it was rebuilt in 1953, the towers were not quite built to their original grandeur because of scarce funds. They omitted the tower tops.

Rooftop Terraces

Above Munich - Day 11: I caught a glimpse of this exclusive private terrace atop one of the roofs of downtown Munich. It seemed a bit of paradise amongst the endless terracotta rooftops and the vertical city of the Altstadt. The terrace had great views of the towers and church tops around the old city, as well as The Residence. Munich has a couple more famous rooftop terraces, including the one at the Hotel Bayerischer Hof, which I’ve posted about several times before. I also discovered a rooftop terrace at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, this one on the East side of the city. It seemed only natural to list these famous terraces given the focus on views above Munich.

Olympic Glory

Above Munich – Day 10: Built for the 1972 Olympic Games in Munich, the Olympic Stadium has been the venue for some of the biggest games in German football history. Although the Olympic tower gives a view from high above the stadium, this vantage point was taken from the panoramic hillside directly across from the stadium. (I had used the shot from the Olympic Tower during an earlier post, and it gives me an excuse to talk about how nice this viewing point is). Be sure to stop at the beer garden on your way up the mountain, and on a clear day enjoy stunning views of downtown with the Alps in the background. As a matter of fact, the stadium itself was constructed to imitate the Alps with its sweeping canopies of acrylic glass and vaulting steel cables. In addition to the famous football matches (this was home to FC Bayern until 2006), the stadium has hosted some of the biggest names in music, including the Rolling Stones, Bruce Springsteen, U2, Madonna, and Michael Jackson.

Window Dressing

Above Munich - Day 9: Overlooking the Ratskeller courtyard restaurant is no less than 50 gargoyles, in the inner courtyard of the rathaus. During the Summer, the Ratskeller opens its patio as a beer garden, as you have lunch or dinner within the gothic masterpiece. As intricate as the façade of the building is, the inner courtyard is surrounded with gothic tower, peaks, and faces from the past. Within the walls are what seem to be endless government offices, including the office of the mayor, Christian Ude. You will also find intricate stained glass outlining Munich’s rich history. As for the gargoyles, you will find them on many medieval buildings throughout Europe. The term itself comes from the French word gargouille – or throat, representing the gurgling sound of water, as gargoyles are generally used as water spouts.

Gothic Munich

Above Munich - Day 8: I find this perspective amazing, as you see 20 or so of the gothic spires that surround the Altstadt. Munich underwent a revival of gothic arts in the 15th century, as it leveraged funding from the Salt trade that went through Munich. It was this time that the Old Rathaus (in foreground) and the Frauenkirche was built. Of course, everything you see in the photo was rebuilt in its original state in the 1950s, after being destroyed in WWII. In fact the tower was specifically destroyed in order to make room for tanks to enter Marienplatz. And it was 18 years later that the city council decided to rebuild the tower at 56 meters high. The building has seen many historical events over the years, including the first smallpox vaccinations in 1805, election of the National Assembly, and the initial recognition of Adolf Hitler. Today, the building is home to Munich’s toy museum.

Delivering on a Dream

Above Munich - Day 7: Not sure if you’ve ever noticed but the Church of St. Ludwig (located on Ludwigstrasse) has one of the most amazing rooftop mosaics in Bavaria. The fact is, few people notice this as it is not readily visible from the street. In addition, the façade of the church continues to be quite under-stated with a bad need of a white wash. But inside, and on top, this church is a gem. Apparently, the church was built with plans to decorate the rooftop, but it was decided NOT to decorate, mostly because of high costs. So several years ago, the church brought this original dream to life by leveraging wealthy benefactors to design and decorate the rooftop. And inside, you will find the world’s biggest altar fresco – of the Last Judgment, which was originally meant to rival the work of Michelangelo’s painting in the Sistine Chapel. I don’t anticipate writing off the Sistine Chapel any time soon, but it may be worth the glance.

Munich's Downtown Domes

Above Munich - Day 6: I’ve shown the iconic double onion domes of the Frauenkirche many times, but never quite this close up and personal. This photo, of course, was taken of the North dome (which is currently under construction and the taller of the two – by only 12 cm) from the viewing point in the South tower. Although the church was constructed in 1488, the domes were not added until 1525 – and they overlook Munich at 109 meters – the tallest structure in Munich (defined by law). Originally, the towers were built to have spires, modeled after the Cologne Cathederal, but the design was changed because of lack of money. Instead the two domes were built during the Renaissance, and although they are mismatched stylistically with the rest of the building, they have become a landmark that symbolizes Munich.

The Space of Sport, Sights, and Slaughter

Above Munich - Day 5: The Square in town that held most of the major events in Munich’s history, Marienplatz or St. Mary’s Square, was the focal point for tournaments, markets, and executions. The square was originally known as Schrannen, but renamed as a way to ask Virgin Mary to protect the town from the Cholera epidemic (it didn’t work as Munich had breakouts in 1836, 1854, and 1873). The primary focus of the photo is the New Rathaus, built in 1909 and capped with a 79 foot spire (which you can also climb). In the foreground is St. Mary’s column, erected in 1638 to celebrate the end of the Swedish invasion, and flanked by four statues symbolizing the city’s overcoming of war, pestilence, hunger and heresy. The square is bordered by entries into the U/S-bahn stations. Finally worth mentioning is the famous Glockenspiel on the face of the Rathaus, where characters perform a dance that was performed in 1517 in Marienplatz to commemorate the end of the plague – unfortunately 300 years before Munich’s worst bouts with the plague in the 1800s. Today, it is the love of tourists from all over the world.

BMW's World

Above Munich – Day 4: I have posted this photo before, but I thought it was a good fit for the Above Munich theme. The photo (taken from the Olympia Dorf) shows the BMW Showcase facility (left) – BMW World, the flat BMW Museum with the logo on the roof, the BMW headquarters tower, and the sprawling assembly plant. Note that this is just one portion of their Munich facilities. The tower was built between 1968 and 1972 and was completed just before the start of the Olympics, but ironically had to take the logo off the façade to avoid any product placements – as the facility is directly across from the Olympic facility. This was also true of the fleet of sedans that shuttled athletes around during the games. The tower is meant to represent a cylinder head, while the museum is meant to look like a racing wheel. However, it is the BMW World that seems to get all the attention ever since it opened in 2007.

Capping off our Lady

Above Munich - Day 3: bit of detail from the roof of the Frauenkirche, one of the largest hall churches in Southern Germany. The interior was designed to hold a congregation of 20,000, despite the fact that when it was built in 1271 Munich only had 13,000 inhabitants. The two towers, not quite 100M high, were added in 1488, and were largely constructed using a 4 meter wide wooden elevator that worked by placing 15-20 men in the wheel running like human hamsters to hoist materials to the top. Today, your only way of getting to the top of the tower is via manned elevator – as the 500 year old steps have grown unusable. This particular place of the roof (pictured) was largely destroyed and collapsed during WWII, and was reconstructed to its current form.

Gazing down Ludwig Strasse

Above Munich: Day 2. From this vantage point, you see all of the Northern side of Munich. This is the area that Ludwig I built, with the grand avenue named in his honor, between Odeonsplatz and the Siegestor. It begins at Odeonsplatz and the Theatine Church, built in 1663. Then you see most of the neighborhood of Schwabing. And finally, you see the sky scrapers built along the second ring road. The most prominent one is the Highlight Towers, completed in 2004 for the Fujitsu Siemens Corporation – which later became Fujitsu Technology Solutions – as a result of Fujitsu buying out Siemens share of the company. The towers were a landmark for modern architecture of Munich, with its towers at 113 meters and a bridge connecting the two towers.

Atop Alt Peter

Above Munich: Day 1. First of all, sorry for the recent Summer hiatus from posting while I’ve been travelling. Last Summer I provided a series of posts highlighting Munich history that is still visible today. This Summer, I thought I would share a completely different perspective of Munich – one from above. There are countless church spires and towers, and viewing points high above the city, and over the next week or two I’ll share some of those images. The first is a view of one of those towers – St. Peter’s church. You can see some of the tourists who climbed the 306 steps to the 92-meter viewing point. By the way, this was the only tower I found that still uses steps. You can cheat on all the other ones, as they’ve installed elevators. The church is known as Alt (old) Peter, as it is the oldest church in the city, and some say is the founding point of the city altogether. Even before Munich was founded in 1158, there has been a church on this site – one of the few hills in central Munich – dating back to the 8th century. A new Romanesque church was built in the 12th century, but destroyed by the great fire of 1327. The church you see today was dedicated in 1368 and the tower (pictured) was added in the 17th century.

Thriller

As with most places on earth, Munich residents were touched by the death of pop king, Michael Jackson. A make-shift memorial was set up across from the Bayershirhof Hotel in Promanadenplatz. It’s a small park encircled by tram lines on each side. I’m not quite certain why the memorial was set up here, but it stopped people passing by all day long.

Peace Arch

Often called Munich’s fourth gate (along with Sendlinger, Isar, and Karlstor), the Siegestor or Victory Gate is the only one outside the Altstadt and the only one with traffic driving around it. The stunning monument, at the intersection of Leopold and Ludwig strasse and at the dividing line between Schwabing and Maxvorstadt neighborhoods, was built to celebrate a WWII victory for Germany. Not only did that not happen, but the victory gate – as well as much of Munich’s Altstadt - was destroyed during WWII by allied bombing. Restoration took place during the 1950s, and renovation continues to this day. Today, the arch which was modeled after the Arc de Triumph in Paris and the Arc of Constantine in Rome, is most well known for the inscription on its façade: "Dedicated to victory, destroyed by war, reminding of peace".

Diva Gazing

More than 14,000 opera fans attended the open air concert at Konigsplatz, featuring Russian Soprano Anna Netrebko and Russian baritone Dmitri Hvorostovsky. The crowd wondered about rain, but were only greeted with the sun shining behind the temple at Konigsplatz - under the dark clouds. This viewer, like thousands others (myself included) lined the streets and parks surrounding Konigsplatz to listen or even get a peak (for the more resourceful pole climbers) of the Russian Diva. As mentioned several days ago, the tickets were quite expensive (300-700 euros), so students of the Musical college next to Konigsplatz (former SS headquarters) took full advantage of their schools proximity and camped out on the grass and along the surrounding walls. One woman even brought her own 5 step ladder so she could peer over the fence at the concert, but ended up frustrated by the number of people asking her if they could take a quick photo (again – me too). I can’t emphasize enough how nice it is just outside the grounds. The music is outstanding. Just bring a blanket, a bottle of wine, and a few friends and you are set.

Beer Garden Maze

Just wait until you have a few beers. Then try to navigate through here. This scene is so common to Munich, and all that you see has been set for hundreds of years – the gravel (no cement), simple benches (no garden or plastic furniture), chestnut trees (no umbrellas). All of this was outlined in the 19th century in what Bavarians call the Beer Garden Decree. It’s no surprise that beer gardens originated in Bavaria. They started as outdoor establishments attached to breweries. All of the local breweries at the time would build caves into the banks of the Isar River (where this beer garden exists today) to keep the beer cool, as the Fermenting process needs to take place at 2-4 degrees Celsius. The beer gardens were so successful that over the past 100 years, it seems every restaurant in town has a beer garden or something quite similar to it. I’ve tried to find out how many beer gardens are in Munich, but it’s nearly impossible as many restaurants, cafes, businesses, and even schools have their own beer garden. Munich even has the largest beer garden in the world, the Hirschgarden with more than 8000 seats – all wooden benches of course. Fortunately, the rules for the visitor are not so strict: Get good food, a beer of your choice (as long as it’s Radler, helles, Weiss or dunkle – because that’s all that’s served in Munich) and simply…relax.

It’s a Hog-Eat-Hog World

Somehow just about anyone who walks through the pedestrian zone in Munich knows this statue, but not all that many people know why a wild boar is in the middle of the Altstadt. It’s because of Bavaria’s rich hunting and fishing history, and because somehow a beautiful old Augustinian church on the main drag of Munich – Neuhauser Strasse - was converted into the Museum of Hunting and Fishing (Jagd und Fischereimuseum). The museum has a huge collection of hunting and survival equipment, weapons, tools, and large scale stuffed animals in their natural habitat – in fact the world’s largest collection of stuffed animals with more than 500. You will also find the world’s largest collection of fish hooks, a 12,000 year old skeleton of a wild Irish stag, and ironically a 6.- foot tall North American grizzly bear. And to greet you at the door, it’s none other than a large catfish and this wild boar. Judging by the kids climbing over both of them – I don’t think it really bites.

"Audrey Hepburn with a Voice"

That’s what they call Russian Soprano Anna Netrebko, who will be giving an open air concert July 10th. The entire area of Konigsplatz has been a buzz of activity for days. The city of Munich generally only does 1-2 concerts like this in Konigsplatz each year, so there are high expectations for the concert. Netrebko is quickly taking the opera world by storm, with a strong mix of beautiful voice and on-stage charisma. She was recently ranked number one in the London Times ranking of the world’s 20 best classical divas. She has been quite popular in Bavaria since her Salzburg concert several years back. She is actually coming off a break from touring after the birth of her first son. She will be performing with Russian baritone Dmitri Hvorostovsky. With rain falling in Munich every day for the past 20 days (note covered stage) and ticket prices ranging from 250-700 euros, locals are cautious. But if it’s dry on Friday, come out and join me and the hundreds of others hanging out in the surrounding blocks. You can’t see much, but the sound is perfect.

Take a Walk on the Wild Side

There seems to be something going on every day during the Summer in Munich. I stumbled upon an open market set up in Hohenzollerplatz in Schwabing. The usual suspects were there – the craft sellers, the bakery, the bongo drums, and of course the beer garden. The platz is the center of this section of Schwabing. In the center of the platz there is a nice fountain, and it always seems to fascinate children as you can walk along the side without getting wet. Yet some decide to take the plunge (as pictured), and why not during one of the few breakthroughs of sun. This area is a great part of Munich, even without the market. It’s surrounded by bending residential streets, each with its own personality and altbau apartments – characterized by the large entry way and special character. It’s also right next to the Nordbad, one of the fun swimming pools around town.

Happy Fourth of July

Of course there wasn’t all that much to celebrate on fourth of July in Munich. You had your customary party at the Hard Rock Munich (I actually didn’t know there was a Hard Rock in Munich), and Brian Wilson of the Beach Boys gave a big concert. The Democrats abroad also organized an event, most likely at a beer garden – which is more Bavarian than American – but hey…there was beer involved so perhaps we have more in common than we thought. And I suppose if you are an American living in Munich, you likely received a nice message from the American Consulate in Munich (as pictured here). I actually tried to take a more interesting photo of the building, but it’s one of the least attractive buildings in town, with the customary cement pylons surrounding it. With that said, it is the most efficient working American consulate in the world. Think American friendliness with German efficiency. We were told it would take 2 weeks for a new passport, which we then received amazingly in 2 days. Now that everything is done by appointment, it’s even more pleasant. The American consulate in Paris had an average of 200 people in it every time you entered. So I guess there is something for Americans to celebrate after all in Munich. As for the fireworks, you will have to wait til New years.

Roll Out the Red Carpet

For 25 years, Flimfest Munchen has debut films from around the world on screens around Munich. And 2009 was no exception, as the Flimfest sold a record 74,500 tickets, 17% more than 2008. Perhaps more people are going to the movies in a down economy. More than 200 films were shown, and sold out very quickly, even some of the lesser known filmmakers. I’ve posted several times about the English cinemas in Munich, but this is an example of films showing locally in the categories of American Independents, New French Cinema, Focus on the Far East, Latin visions. Winner for the best international show is announced tonight. In the photo, you can see one of the many venues around town, including the Deutsches museum cinemas.

Munich's Little Secret

With only 12 rows of pews, Asam’s Church is one of Munich’s smallest but most opulent churches. Take a look at these photos (panorama here), and you will see why. It’s spectacular! I’ll have to find another time to go inside. A wedding was occurring on this day, and many passers would sneak a peak of the bride in such a splendid setting. You can see in this photo the gold of the high altar, enclosed by four twisted columns. Above the high alter you will see an image of God in a Papal tiara, bending over the crucified Christ. The church was actually built in 1733 by two brothers (who lived next door) for their personal use, but the church later demanded that it be open to the public. The Catholic church’s real name is the Chruch of St. Johann Nepomuk, but everyone knows it by the brothers’ name – Egid & Cosmas Asam. The two brothers achieved one of the finest achievements in Bavarian late Baroque and rococo architecture, which was carefully restored in 1975. Today, the church and the home next to it, sit on one of Munich’s busiest shopping streets, Sendlingerstrasse.

Munich's Summer Fest

And today, cross the city for another Summer fest, a much larger one – Tollwood. Taking place at the foot of the Olympic hill this Summer fest runs through July 12th, and brings in top bands like Simple Minds; Foreigner; Amy MacDonald; Earth, Wind & Fire; and the Buena Vista Social Club. You will also find a mix of theatre, Salsa dancing, handcrafts, and kids play area. Of course, I’ve also described the festival as a bit of a hippy-fest with its all bio menu, but that’s a bit common in Munich as well. To its credit, for a town that often feels like it shuts down at 8 pm, the event is open til 1 a.m. Just one more example of how the city of Munich still utilizes its tremendous Olympic Park every single day.

Me and the Band

That’s the feeling in the Tunix festival going on this week behind the Glyptotek museum and produced by the Technical University of Munich. The four-day festival, which has been going on for the past 25 years, has brought the neighborhood to life – if for no other reason for the loud music that has rolled into the night around Maxvorstadt. The festival is free, organized by the student body, and mostly filled with students from the University next door. And to bring out the students, they’ve selected the top local bands around. Acutally, Tunix represents only one of the three festivals at the university, including StuStaCalum and Garnix. All are a great success for the Univeristy. Just to be consistent with yesterday's post, which ever band is on stage runs for cover each afternoon as the rain, thunder, and lightening begin. And like all student events, they have a "Meet the Prof" table where you can meet with your professors - but this time over a beer. It is Munich, after all.

Reality Check

So yesterday I did a post about the great outdoors around Munich. And it’s true. Munich has some great opportunities for enjoying the outdoors – generally better than most places on earth. However, I thought I would share a good dose of reality with you – what Spring is really like in Munich. I have not been here long enough to know if this is normal or not, but we have had three straight weeks of rain. And I’m not talking about a quick sprinkle through town. I’m talking about a torrential downpour happening every day of the week. The thing that is a bit misleading is it seems quite sunny and nice in the morning, only to be caught with heavy rain, winds, and a 15 degree (Fahrenheit) drop in temperature as the day goes along. As much as I am impressed with Munich, it makes being here incredibly depressing as it feels like nighttime at 3 in the afternoon. So get out while you can and enjoy the two hours of sun in the morning before the monsoon comes through town. Between you and me…I can’t wait til this pattern ends.

The Great Outdoors

Jack Wolfskin may not be a Munich-based company (it is based in Idstein, 200 KM Northwest of Munich), but fewer brands are more engrained in the Munich outdoor lifestyle than this outdoor apparel, footwear, and equipment manufacturer and retailer. Jack Wolfskin is generally listed as one of Munich’s coolest assets, and a celebrated part of the culture as it becomes more and more fashionable and used in everyday situations rather than in the extreme outdoors. I tend to think of the brand as being very similar to Timberland, but there are claims that Jack Wolfskin is the largest outdoor clothing manufacturer in the world – although I can’t confirm. It. The company was founded in 1981, and now has stores across Europe and Asia selling everything from mountaineering to leisure clothing.

From Heine's Home to Home Store

Just North of Sendlingertor on Hackenstrasse 4, is the former home of German poet, journalist, and literary critic – Christian Johann Heinrich Heine. Heine was best known for his lyric poetry, much of which was set to music in the form of art songs by German Composers. Heine lived from 1797 until 1856, and lived in Munich for a very short time from 1827-1828. He was born in Dusseldorf and spent time in Hamburg, Gottingen, Bonn & Berlin. In 1825, just before moving to Munich, Heine converted from Judaism to Lutheranism, as Jews had severe restrictions in many German states at the time, and this prevented him from an academic career. He described this move as a “ticket of admission into European culture.” The elegant home is today the home of the Radspielerhaus, which today houses another Munich establishment, Radspieler a quality home and furniture store.

Where Good Beer Comes From

With all the beer production in Munich, there’s no shortage of key ingredients around here. I came across this barley farm at Inhausen, a small community North of Munich. You find similar farms around Munich growing hops as well. And that’s where the great beer production starts. Combine these two with water, hops and yeast – and you have an industry to power the region. You actually don’t need to go far outside Munich to run into these farms, as the moment you leave the urban boundary you are in the middle of farmland.

Catching Air

A paraglider works on his technique at the city boundary of Munich. Like most outdoor sports, paragliding is quite popular in Munich and surrounding area. There are two flight schools around Munich, including Fly for Fun, and Flagschule Chiemsee – both organized by the German Hang gliding and Paragliding Federation. The speed range of paragliders is typically 20-60 kilometers per hour. Unlike parachutes, which are used for descending, paragliders are used specifically for ascending and are often called ascending parachutes. Along those lines, this athlete struggles to stay afoot, as you see the neighborhood of Am Hart in the distance.