Friday, August 27, 2010

New Baby

Storks are said to bring the babies in Germany. The legend began during pagan times in Northern Germany when families would hope to have storks nest on their roof tops to bring fertility. Here a family's home is decorated for its newest addition.

Many of the zoos around Germany, including the Hellabrunn Zoo here in Munich have stork habitats where visitors can hear them clapping their bills in between delivering babies to their new homes.

Thursday, August 26, 2010

Wedding gifts

Occasionally in Munich department stores there will be a table where the bride and groom will place gifts they'd like to receive for their guests to purchase, however gift registries are not very common. Cold hard cash seems to be the gift of choice and finding a creative way to present it is sure to win points. Some fold bills into origami shapes, forms, or characters, while others painstakingly freeze or incorporate coins into ice or gelatin.

Wednesday, August 25, 2010

Reception

Dancing is always an essential part of wedding celebrations - particularly dancing a Waltz. There are also a variety of speeches, skits, singing, and perhaps guest appearances. It seems Bavarians really let their hair down when it's time to celebrate a wedding. I've witnessed a magic show, slide shows, and even performances by people dressed up as Michael Jackson and Elvis.

Bouquet tosses are done, while garter tosses are not. Also, freezing the top layer of the wedding cake to eat on the first anniversary isn't typical.

Dessert buffets, balloon releases, late night currywurst, fireworks, and time capsules to open on the first anniversary seem to be the trends.

Tuesday, August 24, 2010

Wedding Attire

Carrying on with the wedding theme it can be difficult to know exactly what to wear. Some wedding parties opt for ultra traditional tracht of the finest quality, while others are comfortable celebrating in jeans, which don't seem festive enough for a wedding. It's also possible to be surprised with a change of clothes turning dinner into a black tie affair complete with tuxedos and cocktail dresses. The closer the proximity to a large city the more formal the celebrations tend to be, but it's always interesting to see the mix of attire.

Monday, August 23, 2010

Church Wedding

Bavaria is heavily Catholic, however the trend seems to be living with a partner for years before getting married. Every wedding I've attended in Bavaria the bride and groom have been married civilly for about 6 months before having a church wedding, although some forgo that all together.

The consensus also seems to be out on whether people are permitted to kiss in the Bavarian Catholic church. When in doubt or when things seem 'modern' (such as having a restroom at the church) I'm often told that's something the Evangelicals (Protestants) do.

Sunday, August 22, 2010

Bahnhof

One of the funniest idioms in German is, "Ich verstehe nur Bahnhof" (Literally translates to: I only understand train station) meaning 'I'm not quite following or don't understand'.

My guess is it's a reference to those speaker systems announcing things with a bit of static. Even if you understand German you might find the perfect time to use this saying after hearing some people with a strong Bavarian dialect.

There are more polite ways to tell someone what they are saying isn't so clear, such as a simple 'Wie bitte?', but using idioms is always a fun way of feeling like a local. Sometimes a little gruffness is crucial to survival here.

Saturday, August 21, 2010

Kreisverwaltungsreferat

The Kreisverwaltungsreferat on Poccistraße is affectionately called the KVR and is a place foreigners of the city love to hate. They deal in all things resident, visa, or work permit related. It should be advised to arrive early to avoid waiting in the dreaded queue. If unable to arrive early don't panic... it's quite a fascinating look into Germany's changing society. There are a myriad of languages being spoken and often large groups of people accompanying one another. Information is not consistent across the board, so in addition to bit of documentation bring plenty of patience.

Friday, August 20, 2010

Season Opener

Today marks the season opening for the Bundesliga with a game between FC Bayern München and VfL Wolfsburg. This cover of 11 Freunde - a magazine for 'Füssballkultur' playfully uses the Beatles Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band with various players and a couple WAGS (wives and girlfriends) in the mix. (Interestingly the Beatles largely got their start in Germany often playing concerts in Hamburg's infamous Reeperbahn area. )

VfL Wolfsburg's most expensive player transfers include 10€ million for Simon Kjaer and 9€ million for Mario Mandzukic. Munich received Toni Kroos as a loan return, thus proving once and for all money can't buy everything.

Here's to hoping a repeat performance for FC Bayern winning the Bundesliga again this year.

Thursday, August 19, 2010

Fruit Stand

The Kaufingerstraße pedestrian zone between Marienplatz and Karlsplatz often has many fruit stands. They typically have affordable and seasonal produce. Interestingly the prices can vary substantially. I tend to be cautious if there is an 'angebot' (sale), because occasionally the fruit is moldy. It also appears many will display their more picturesque fruits along with a sign stating no self service.

That being said once you find a good one to frequent the sales people are more friendly and just maybe you'll receive some of the nicer produce that they mysteriously pull from behind the table.

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Andechs Monastery

The first pilgrimages to Andechs were way back in 1138 and it continues to be a a right of passage for Munich residents and adventurous tourists. If the weather is right it's a nice day trip to the swanky Starnberg area.

While the church is quite a sight Andechs attracts many visitors that not only pay a visit to the Benedictine monastery, but to sample the beer which has brewed since 1455. If you end up going by S-bahn be prepared to hoof it for about an hour before being able to praise the Lord for that fantastic beer.

Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Declining Birthrate

There have been may factors that are said to be to blame for the declining birthrate in Germany: an over educated population that focuses on careers, marrying later in life, the cost of raising children, and of course the bedding. Surprisingly this isn't a photo of a burnt orange 'Asian' themed duvet, which is hopefully a dying trend.

Foreigners are often surprised to learn couples often sleep in their own bed that is pushed up to their partner's and don't even think about sharing covers - each person has his or her own!

Monday, August 16, 2010

Horizons Crossed

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Munich has aims of becoming the most bike friendly city in the world. It's no doubt they are well on their way with fantastic bike paths located in and around the city as well as bike compartments on both the S-bahns and the trains.

There are over 200km of bike trails around Munich with clearly marked signals that are exclusively for bikes, which make this inexpensive mode of transportation also quite safe.

Sunday, August 15, 2010

A-team

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A bit of guerilla marketing appears on a Schwabing street encouraging passersby to call the A-team if they have problems.

Street art isn't widely seen around the city, however advertisers are growing savvy in attempting to find new ways to catch people's attention, in this case as a promotion for an upcoming movie.

Saturday, August 14, 2010

Bayern München's Future

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A young group of boys gathers with their coach before football / soccer practice. Perhaps one of them will grow to join the Bayern Munich Junior Team. Many of the first team are either from Munich or within a 70km radius of the city.

Author Malcolm Gladwell argues in his book Outliers that a child's birth month strongly correlates with their success in sports. Children born closer to the registration cutoff dates have more time to develop and grow giving them the competitive edge.

Since there is so much talent in and around Munich perhaps it's just the steady diet of pretzels and würst.

Friday, August 13, 2010

A1

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Audi unveils its newest car - the A1, which is meant to be competition to BMW's Mini. One of the joys of living so close to the factories is being able to pick up your new car directly from the production line. Some even offer trips to those who come from abroad to ship them back to their homeland after driving them around Europe.

Having cars at the airport immediately signifies to visitors that they have arrived to Munich, which is automobile heaven.

Thursday, August 12, 2010

Photo Shoot

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At one of Munich's 'Schickimicki' (see + be seen) bars a photo shoot takes place. In the past owner Charles Schumann has been seen in commercials for Campari, although oddly the bar has been covered so it appears as if it could be anywhere. It's anyone's guess as to what this is for.

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Cleanliness

What separates two people most profoundly is a different sense and degree of cleanliness
- German scholar and philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche.

Often when people visit Munich and Germany they are surprised to see how clean it is. People clean up after their dogs, they throw their trash away in the proper receptacle, of course, and even though eating and drinking on the subway is allowed it's generally pretty tidy.

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

Puppet Theater

It's nice to see children enjoying a puppet show outdoors as opposed to being inside watching television.

The area is surrounded with well known theaters exclusively for this ancient form of entertainment, including the Salzburg Marionette Theater and the Augsburg Puppenkiste. The very best part is hearing how involved the children get while screaming at the puppets.

Monday, August 9, 2010

Sommerfest

Munich loves it's annual celebrations. Sommerfest has been happening since 1982. What was supposed to be a one-time event to commemorate the 10th anniversary of the olympics is now an annual celebration held at Coubertinplatz.

Nearly 250,000 visitors attend the events, which range from the typical festival rides and foods to events for people with dogs and evenings filled with fireworks. There is also the 'Boatmans' tournament', where people try to tip each others boats.

It's a fun event in a beautiful setting.

Sunday, August 8, 2010

Glockenspiel

One of the simple pleasures of being a Munich resident is walking through Marienplatz as the tourists gather to watch the Glockenspiel - daily at 11:00 (also at 12:00, and 17:00 in the summer).

With cameras ready there are always plenty of mouths gaping open as they stare up at the 16th century chimes high upon the city hall. There is quite a bit of build up for what is a pretty uneventful tourist attraction, but watching the spectators always is reason to smile.

Saturday, August 7, 2010

Hand Painted

Several movie theaters around the city have hand painted signs, which give a personalized and artistic touch to what has become a mass produced and instantaneous advertising world. It's nice to see that the tradition lives on.

Friday, August 6, 2010

Excuse me

Germans aren't often known for their humor. It's there and often in satirical form, but it's not easily identified when learning the complex language, which isn't exactly flexible.

When I saw this port-a potty I had a nice laugh. Although here ASS is an acronym and 'miet' means rental it's so literal, which seems very German.

Thursday, August 5, 2010

Sausage burger

Visitors who don't enjoy stretching out of their comfort zone can always stop at McDonald's - the global fast food giant. They may be surprised to see several different items on the menu, including beer and for a limited time the 'Nürnburger' made with sausages.

The HoWe wurst factory that supplies the sausages is owned by Uli Hoeneß former general manager and president of Bayern München.

Munich loves beer, sausages, and football... it always comes full circle.

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

Revitalization

Despite seeing a slight slump in the economy there are many building projects going on around the city. It's a place that is continually evolving and reinventing itself, which is one reason it's such a great place to live. I enjoy seeing the various layers and complexities of the city as it rebuilds.

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Rauchverbot

Voters decided last month to put an end to indoor smoking at restaurants with a 61% against smoking with under 40% of voter turn out. This past weekend the ruling went into effect, so theoretically all smoking indoors should be a thing of the past. If the new laws will be enforced is another question.

Bar and restaurant owners can be fined up to €1000 or risk losing their license if they are repeat offenders. Smokers risk being only fined about €5.

It's yet to be seen how this will affect area businesses, however Oktoberfest celebrants will be granted a one-year reprieve since tents aren't yet equipped with areas for smokers.

Monday, August 2, 2010

Auto Test

Germany is very car oriented with Audi + BMW in Bavaria and Mercedes + Porsche in nearby Stuttgart. On occasion you may notice a distinctly patterned car on the streets of Munich. They are unmarked, but nearly impossible not to notice. The bold patterns and swirling designs are meant to hide the contours of these yet to be released designs while giving their test drivers a better idea of how the car handles in real situations.

Stop and go city traffic (particularly around the Hauptbahnhof) as well as the stretch of autobahn between the airport + Allianz arena are hot spots to see these yet to be released cars.

Sunday, August 1, 2010

Nightlife

Visitors to Munich are sometimes disappointed by the lack of options in going out at night. While entertaining is typically done outside of people's homes and apartments, many bars and restaurants close relatively early. Amazingly even the biergartens close before midnight. The best areas to find something going on tend to be Schwabing, Haidhausen, Maxvorstadt, and the Glockenbachviertel.

Saturday, July 31, 2010

Crockery

As the largest crockery market in all of Europe the Dult has plenty of dishes in various forms, colors, and makes. Some stalls cater towards brand name pieces, while others are handmade and make for perfect souvenirs. Don't expect to find any Nymphenburg Porcelain, but still there are beautiful things amidst the chaos.

Friday, July 30, 2010

Treasure Hunters

There is a large array of strange, unique, and interesting things to be found at the Dult. It's a great place to find antiques, although it requires a lot of patience. Sometimes prices are affordable and inexpensive, while other times finding that perfect one-off item means parting with some serious money, because chances are good it won't ever be found again.

Best of luck in finding the perfect thing you never knew you needed!

Thursday, July 29, 2010

Steckerlfisch

One of the traditional foods at the festivals here are Steckerlfisch. 'Steckerl' comes from the Bavarian dialect for little stick. The fish - in their entirety - are cooking on sticks that are tilted above charcoals, so be prepared to dig around the bones. Typically Mackerl or a 'Lachsforelle' Sea Troute are used.

Occasionally they can also be found at biergartens in the area as well. Usually the tables surrounding the fish stands are cleared out for the obvious reasons. You have to feel for the guy that cooks them day in and day out.

Wednesday, July 28, 2010

Socks & Sandals

Being a traditional festival means people must have previously purchased clothing and home goods along side food and entertainment. Now days it is slightly strange to see an array of clothing for sale at the Dult festival. It always makes me wonder if the sales travel Germany and the surrounds to exclusively sell socks and other items at the various festivals.

None the less we all know Germans can easily be spotted the world over with their love of pairing socks with sandals, so there is definitely a market for them - even in the summer.

Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Soap Box derby

One of many great things about Munich is how the community really gathers for celebrations and innocent fun. Even though one would typically think of the soap box race as child's play there were some very sophisticated cars, unique designs from various political parties, and also the local police who can also have a bit of fun from time to time.

Monday, July 26, 2010

Jakobidult

This week will be dedicated to the Jakobidult, which is a traditional festival that is held at the foot of the Mariahilf church. Being the 700th year that Munich's residents and visitors gather for food, fun, and a bit of hit or miss shopping has something to offer for nearly everyone.

Last Friday the festivities began under torrential rains with a spot on local television. Celebrations continued through the weekend with a soap box car race on Sunday and will continue until August 1st. It's a great place to wear tracht (lederhosen and dirndls) or to see the locals dressed up in their traditional wears.

Sunday, July 25, 2010

Berry Picking

One of the simple summer pleasures is leaving the city center to pick your own berries. The fields are relatively close to the city center as well and some are even accessible by jumping on the S-Bahn.

Depending on the time of summer one can find strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, and even currants. It's a fun family activity and the berries stay fresh much longer than those that are purchased at the store. Don't forget to bring an enormous bowl and some cash!

Saturday, July 24, 2010

Post Office

Visiting the Post Office is something many people here loathe. It's a prime example of German bureaucracy. It's possible to buy stamps at a machine, as the woman on the far right is doing, however you have to know the exact envelope size, weight, and destination are three variables that will determine the price. If you need change prepare to receive it back in the form of stamps.

Any uncertainty requires standing in the endless line. Usually the postal worker pulls out their handy drawer to measure exactly. While you're at it, forget getting your mail delivered if it has anything than the name of the resident that is registered at the KVR. Not even addressing something to 'Oma (insert last name)' will work.

Friday, July 23, 2010

Honey

Bees are not a very common sight in the city, especially since 20% of the one million colonies didn't survive the winter, which as been blamed on the Varroa mite. Some beekeepers have even gone as far as stealing other keeper's hives.

It looks as though bees are becoming even more valuable in Germany, because some airports have gone as far as using bees to detect local air quality.

Surprisingly there is a very large variety of honey available in Germany in varieties as varied as avocado and lavender, which makes a unique gift to bring someone.

Thursday, July 22, 2010

I mog Di

What was the wedding reception of Bavaria's Prince Ludwig and Princess Therese of Saxony-Hildburghausen continues to be quite the celebration. This year's Oktoberfest marks the 200th anniversary of 'the Wies'n' (as the locals say). In less than two months, in addition to another year of beer guzzling, carnival rides, and mass tourism, expect to see horse races, old fashioned Oktoberfest tents, and carousels at Theresienwiese.

It may also be worth stopping at the Stadtmuseum (city museum) to check out their exhibit to see how the festivities have evolved.

*I mog Di is Bavarian dialect for 'Ich mag dich' or 'I like you'.

Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Pavillion 21

This angular intergalactic looking structure is actually a temporary instillation called Pavillion 21. Mini Automobiles (owned by BMW) and the Bavarian city opera have joined in creating this events hall that features music, film, yoga, and performances until July 25th.

This unique structure certainly captures the attention of passersby and offers patrons of the arts yet another venue to explore.

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Lights, Camera, Action!

On Metzstraße, one of Munich's most picturesque streets, is the filming of Kung Fu Mama / Mom 007 for the German TV channel RTL. Much of the German TV production is done in Köln, however there are several streets around the city that make you feel as though you are on a movie set with the village like atmosphere, cobbled streets, and beautiful produce stands.

Don't worry... the Swat man was part of the production.

Monday, July 19, 2010

Japanfest

This past weekend was the Japanfest at the Japanese Tea House in the English Garden. It is interesting to see how different cultures celebrate and how their culture gets reinterpreted.

Ikebana, Japanese foods, traditional clothing, and the manga subculture were out in full force. There were plenty people partaking in 'cosplay' complete with circle contact lenses in an array of colors, including pink and white. I prefer to see the beautiful kimonos and appreciate the more traditional aspects of the festival.

Sunday, July 18, 2010

Kocherl Ball

Munich is certainly a city of traditions. Waking up before the crack of dawn on a Sunday morning might not sound like a lot of fun, however joining over 10,000 of the city's revelers in enjoying a candle light breakfast and merry making at the Chinese Tower is definitely worth losing some sleep.

The annual cooks ball was once a time for the servants, help, and cooks to slip away for a celebration. It has now turned into a chic see and be seen event with some very elaborate costumes and plenty of dancing and drinks to go around.

Saturday, July 17, 2010

Sweet relief

The city has been under a drastic heat wave that doesn't seem to be relenting. The best ways to deal with the heat include making a trip to the Isar River or finding a shady biergarten with plenty of cold beverages.

Germans occasionally tell their children if they don't eat their vegetables it will rain the next day, so it looks as though they should trade those veggies in for ice cream - pronto!

Friday, July 16, 2010

Auf Wiedersehen

I am very excited to continue this project and will explore the far stretches of this sweet little city.

Troy certainly leaves some very big shoes to fill and will be greatly missed. Each day I looked forward to seeing the hidden corners of Munich through his eyes. He definitely made the most out of his 30 months here, which can serve as inspiration for us all.

Thank you, Troy! We all wish you the very best.

With the World Cup matches now over there are remnants of seldom seen German pride doting the city. A florist in the Hauptbahnhof has decorated anthurium to match the colors of the German flag. It will be 4 more years until we see this patriotism creep back into the daily life. Hopefully by then the vuvuzelas will be long forgotten.

Thursday, July 15, 2010

A Time to Say Farewell…

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After 30 months in Munich, it’s unfortunately time for us to depart the city and this fun project, called Munich Daily Photo. The good news is that I have a great friend who has agreed to take the project over – which I am very excited about, as I will be able to continue to see this tremendous city through her eyes. I will let her introduce herself as she is ready to start in the coming days. So on my final post I return to the spot of my first post – Kardinal-Faulhaber-Strasse, gazing at the majestic domes of the Frauenkirche. I love this street because it encapsulates so much about Munich, with the Archbishop’s palace, and the Palais Porcia (Munich’s oldest baroque style palace – built in 1693) in the foreground. The street also is where you will find the Palais Holnstein, which has served as the home of Munich’s Archbishop since 1818. And don’t be surprised when you see the outline of Kurt Eisner Bodendenkmal’s body (the first Bavarian Prime Minister after abolition of Monarchy) who was killed there. I like this street because – like Munich - it is unassuming but packs so much history. Most visitors would never make it to this street, but it tells so many stories about Munich – with its Literaturehaus + the English Hugendugel bookstore. That’s the unique part of Munich, it has so many sides, so many layers to get to know, so many intensely interesting streets to walk down. So on my 732nd post, and on my 732nd adventure, and on my 732nd walk down an interesting Munich street – I say "Auf Wiedersehen!"

Thursday, July 8, 2010

Opera in the Park

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OK.  I’ve mentioned it many times before, but I’ll do it again.  I love the Hofgarten.  The former garden of the residence, with its neo-classical arcade, and its well manicured lawns.  I came by the other day and a beautiful woman was singing one of the famous operas over lunch.  When you combined the picturesque backdrop of the arcade and the Theatinerkirche and Odeonzplatz behind it, with the new-found sun that has brought everyone out to the parks – it was absolutely perfect.  One of our first weekends after moving from Paris to Munich, we met a family from Salzburg – and they said that Munich was a much more cultured city than Paris because it had two city orchestras.  While I can’t argue this point, I can say you are not likely to repeat such a scene in the US.  I believe this is a uniquely European experience.

Monday, July 5, 2010

Attention to Detail

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It’s always so strange to walk into the Theatinerkirche in Munich.   The facade is so colorful and bold, and the inside is so white and intricate.  All of the inside has such a remarkably light feeling, thanks to its brilliant white color.  It seems the perfect place to see the sunset coming through the windows.  The Church was build in 1690, and today the structure takes up the better part of the block leading up to Odeonsplatz.  It’s really quite stunning to see from the royal gardens – the Hofgarten.  combine the gardens with the view of the Residence, the old market of Odeonsplatz, and the beautiful church – and you realize that this is Munich at its finest.

Sunday, July 4, 2010

Happy Fourth of July

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A group of American expats celebrate an impromptu independence day event.  Where else?  But at the beer gardens in Munich.  There is an estimated 350,000 Americans expats in Munich, significantly more during Oktoberfest, of course.  So happy 234th birthday to the US, and happy celebration to all those Americans abroad.  Of course, in Munich the US consulate always has an official event, but I think you’re better off choosing your favorite beer garden, where the kids can play and the adults can gather. That’s the beauty of a US celebration in Munich.

Saturday, July 3, 2010

And Now Reality Sets in

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Four hours after the party began, was the realization that Germany would have to face Spain in the semi-finals of the world Cup. On paper, Spain looks like the top team by far in the tournament. It was the odds-on favorite coming into the event. With that said, Spain has looked shaky in early rounds. We sat outside last night watching the Spain/Paraguay match with a slew of Germans hoping to meet Paraguay in the next round. But after Spain beat Paraguay 1-0, the next match up between the European nations was set. On the opposite bracket, the Netherlands will play Uruguay. Europe was the big flop of the last round, with big names Italy, France & England going out; but with all three teams surviving to this round, it is likely for an all Europe final.

Friday, July 2, 2010

Let the Party Begin

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The combination of a dominating 4-0 win vs favored Argentina, temperatures in the 90s, and knowing that Germany made it to the semi-finals or final four made for a party along Leopoldstrasse. Germany has proven throughout the World Cup that when their team shows up to play, they can pound opponents with a punishing offensive threat. As usual, Leopoldstrasse is where the biggest party in town is, and hundreds of thousands of people shut down a 2-mile stretch of the Munich thoroughfare. You could barely move throughout the crowds and the sea of the black, red, and yellow was enough to make anyone feel patriotic.

Thursday, July 1, 2010

Arabella Haus

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In the Northeast corner of Munich, you find a section of Bogenhausen that not many of the locals know much about – unless you work at the Hypo bank headquarters there or at the Westin Grande or Sheraton Arabella (pictured), which now house the two towers.  The buildings were developed as hotels to meet the increased capacity required for the 1972 Munich Olympics, and to this day serve as hotels, but also residential apartments and multiple clinics.  This is a picture of the facade of the Arabella Haus.  The thing that surprised me the most about this area though was how ethnically diverse it is.  The hotels and the neighborhood clearly cater to those from the Middle East, and as you walk through the park about 50% of those you pass are in traditional Middle Eastern clothing.