The Headless Horsemen

Happy Halloween! Of course, they don't really celebrate Halloween in Munich or anywhere in Germany, but I just couldn't help sharing this photo of dad and his two trusty side kicks. How they became headless, no one will tell. But it's just not every day you see such a scene in the regularly up & up Munich. I've searched far and near, and the only Halloween celebrations I can come up with are a few under-30 parties and some ex-pats hosting parties. But to be forewarned, Germans think of Haloween as something very different than Americans. Little kids dressed up in fun outfits, are replaced with gore, gore, gore. Not sure why this difference, but it's a bit of a shock if you are expecting anything but vampires and demons.

Neptune's Garden

On the other side, you have the Nymphenburg gardens, with the close-by botanical gardens, this represents one of the largest inner-city parks in Europe. More than a 200-hectacre park, this space has seen its side of personality renewals - Italian, French, German & English - all within the past 300 years and expanding with each redesign.. At one point it was desinged by an apprentice of the same designer who created Versailles. From this picture, you can see the large 900 meter canal that bisects the park and extends from the palace all the way to the S1 train line. At points, the canal is lined with statues of Greek gods. Apparently, there have been few changes tot he gardens since about 1800, which you can enjoy on any given day in Munich.

Swan Song

The two sides of Nymphenburg Palace. One one side, you have a rare glimpse into Bavarian royalty, as the great Baroque palace was built in 1675 (the two ousdie pavallions were added in 1701) as the Summer residence of the rulers of Bavaria. This was also the site where King Ludwig II was born in 1845. The palace was then extended over time to reach its current length of about 700 meters long, and it is still lived in today by the chancery for the head of the house of Wittlesbach, currently Franz, Duke of Bavaria. A small amount of the Palace is open to the public today, with its extensive ceiling frescos, Nymphenburg porcelain workshop, and one of the most important ancient carriage museums. Today, Nymphenburg is one of the most visited cultural sites in Bavaria, with more than 300,000 visitors annually, even more than the Munich Residence in the center of town. And unlike the Residence, Nymphenburg palace does not appear to have been destroyed during WWII, maintaining much of its original decor and charm.

In the Heart of Art Nouveau

If you are going to check out art in Munich, there is no time frame that is more relevant to the city than Art Nouveau. Munich was one of the big centers of Art Nouveau development during the backdrop of the industrial revolution. Along with cities like Paris, Brussels, Amsterdam and New York, Munich was on the forefront. So it's always exciting when a bit of that type of art comes back through Munich today. Well not since the Kandinsky exhibit inspired lines of people blocks long have I seen a show so strong in Munich as the Alfons Mucha show at the Kunsthalle, just 100m from the Residence.. Mucha was a Czech born artist who spend several years in Munich before landing in Paris, where he received worldwide fame for his poster art, including those for Sarah Bernhardt, the famous theatre actress. Mucha formed a six year contract to produce Bernhardt's promotion posters, and many of those examples are in the show. Also at the exhibit is a recreation of Mucha's designs at the Bosnia-Herzegovina pavillion for the Paris World's Fair in 1900. It's quite impressive to see the walls of this palace rebuilt in downtown Munich. Eventually, Mucha left Paris to return to his hometown of Prague, and many of his local works have been reconstructed for the show. If you ever wanted a good taste of Art Nouveau, this is a good place for it.

Speed Demons

About the only thing moving slow on Ludwigstrasse is the planned renovation of the University church, Ludwigskirche. Although the renovation was supposed to complete by now, a discovery of Asbestos, has delayed the reopening until at least Palm Sunday, 2010. The church is an icon along one of Munich's busiest streets, with its neo-romanesque style and two arches. The church also is said to have the largest altar fresco in the world. Like most of this part of the city, it was commissioned by King Ludwig I and built in 1829. The church then became the model for many other churches around the world, including the Alterchenfelder Pfarrkirche in Vienna, the St. George's Episcopal church in New York City, the Bowdoin College Chapel in Brunswick Maine, and the Congregational church of the pilgrims in Brooklyn. I was hoping that the delayed work inside would have prompted the University to white-wash the outside, as the spectacular facade looks quite neglected, but no sign of that as of yet.

Kickin it at Karlsplatz

Karlsplatz is the main square between the Hauptbahnhof and Marienplatz, and it is the end of the major pedestrian walkway through the Altstadt, marked by the gothic gate - Karlstor. It was oficially named Karlsplatz in 1791 after the unpopular Elector Karl Theodor, but all the locals know the place as Stachus, named after the innkeeper Eustachius Stachel, who had a popular pub until the time that Theodor laid out Karlsplatz. some also say that Stachus is actually named after the word "Stachel" or prickle to indicate arrow - as the area was was used by marksmen in the middle ages. Today the platz is often one of the busiest in Munich with its enormous water fountain (seen in the background), but its proximity to the central station and the Altstadtring of traffic gives it a very mixed clientele.

A Night Out with Ottmar

Not too long ago we spent an amazing evening out at a concert by German-born composer Ottmar Liebert. We had been fans of Liebert for years, but actually assumed that - based upon his music and not his name - that he had a Latin background. He plays amazing Latin guitar, and the show was just us, him and and one of the most inspiring groups of photographs (all his) I've ever seen. No surprise, they fit his music perfectly. It turns out that he makes many passes through Munich, as it's close to his home in Germany. Check him out online, or better yet in person if you get the chance.

Goin on the Cheap

There's no shortage of low cost airlines flying in/out of Munich. Some of the more popular names include Aer Lingus, AirBaltic, and Easy Jet. Or if you are a little more adventurous you can try Clickair or Jet2com. One of the largest all over Germany is Air Berlin, which is recognized at the only low cost German airline. I'm not quite certain if they are focused more on bringing people to or from Munich, but they generally hit all the popular Mediterranean spots, including Athens, Malaga, Milan, and Nice. It appears that Lufthansa is not the only game in town any more, especially because Air Berln is covering many of the Northern German
cities like Berlin, Cologne, and Dusseldorf. I caught this photo at the airport, in the comon space between termanals 1 and 2. I've always enjoyed this space as it has lots of retail, beer gardens, and even skating in the Winter. It's also the location where planes, tranes, and automobils come together.

The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe

Well, I suppose if it was the story of the Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe, it would be an alternate universe version as the original story takes place in England during WWII. Yet I was really stricken by these two young girls dressed in red at the base of the two Bavarian Lions at Odeonsplatz. The lions mark the entry of the Feldherrnhall, or Field Marshall's Hall at the base of Ludwigstrasse. Odeonsplatz is one of the more beautiful around Munich, at the conjunction between the Hofgarten, the Residenz, the Theatine Church, and the entry into Schwabing and the University District. The platz has no shortage of Munich history wrapped up into it, as it was formed in 1791 as the medieval city wall was was demolished.

Blazin Saddles

As temperatures plunged nearly 40 degrees Farenheit over the past week or so, you can see Munich go directly from Summer to Winter. With temperatures in the high 30s this week, bikes from no fewer than 5 tour companies around town are getting locked up for the Winter. It's hard to believe that we've had three days of snow in Munich this past week, and the week before everyone was sitting out in the parks for their last glimpse of sun. Well, if you ever come to Munich at a warmer time, a bike is a great way to see the city. But i say lose the tour and the guide, and go out adventuring on your own - through the English Garden, Schwabing, and the Olympic Park. You'll love it.

Night Rider

As if surfing on the Eisbad was not crazy enough. If you've read this post before, you know the story. A perfect wave is created as a leg of the Isar River enters the English Garden, making a perfect ampitheatre for the surfers, and onlookers above. The downside is it's incredibly dangerous, as there are rocks only milimeters below the water surface at some points. Add to this the craziness of surfing at night. We walked by to find the surf illumiated by floodlights and a generator last weekend, with no shortage of surfers. Are these guys mad? Maybe. They disregard the "danger of death" signs posted near by and so do the cops. This is a signature of Munich, and I hope it stays this way. Stay safe out there.

Munich Marathon

First of all, sorry for my delay in posting. I've been absolutely hijacked by T-Mobile, and have lost my internet access. Not a good scene. I'm posting this over the cellular netowrk. Also not a good thing. But let me let you know what you've been missing in Munich. First of all, we had the 24th annual Munich Marathon, where over 10,000 runners pound the pavement - in this case the cobblestone pavement in front of the Glyptotek Museum. This shot was taken at the KM post 35, and the band was out in full force, rooting the runners on. I'm not sure who this band is, but I see them all over Munich, and they are an absolute blast. So much so, that this character caught me looking in between drum beats, and in the end stole the show.

Residenz Week

Now that we are finished with that Oktoberfest madness, it's time to get to some of Munich's more refined cultural side. Specifically, today kicks off the week celebrating one of Munich's most important addresses - the Munich Residence. This this the downtown Schloss that was the set of government and residence of the Bavarian dukes, electors, and knings from 1508 to 1918. And despite being demolished during WWII, it's still one of the coolest spots in Munich. There are literally 10 events scheduled each day. So we went to a concert on opening night, and it was an amazing choir that certainly lifted our spirits. What was most amazing about the event though, was the setting. The concert took place in the Hall of Antiquities (Antiquarium), which was built in 1568 for the art collection of Albert V. It is said to be the largest Ranaissance hall north of the Alps, and was later remodeled into a banquet hall. Although this picture doesn't do the hall justice, it's by far the most stunning in the Residence.

The Grand Finale

Well after 3 weeks, I think I (and most of the locals in Munich) have had their fill of Oktoberfest. it's one of those strange things that you can't wait for, but then once you are there it becomes a bit overwhelming. I really wanted to end Oktoberfest with this image though, because it represents a lot of what I love about Oktoberfest. Even if you don't know the people at your table, everyone is stiff and reserved at the beginning of the night. But it's not long before it seems like everyone is friends. So farewell to all of our new firends for this year, and now onto other things aorund Munich.

The Stars of München TV

I don't know the whole story here, but this couple are absolute stars of the Oktoberfest. If you haven't seen them before, then you've never watched Munchen TV. Because during Oktoberfest, they are on the TV around the clock. I'm talking 24-hours a day, they seem to be hosting a show live from the Hofbrau tent. So when we came across this unique pairing, I knew I had to share them with you. And when they started interviewing our crew, it got even better. Theyr'e actually quite quirky, as they ramble on and on with 5000 revelers screaming in the background. I have to say that I have not seen them on any other coverage, so perhaps they work around the clock for 2.5 weeks, but then get the rest of the year off. Not a bad gig if you can get it.

Dandelion

Here's the view at Oktoberfest looking up form the carousel. From this vantage point, the little moving horses of the carousel seem overwhelmingly safe, while this contraption is one of the festivals highest points. I took pictures of this same ride on day 5 or so of Oktoberfest, and most of the seats were empty. Most people say that this was a down year for Oktoberfest, with attendance significantly down from years past because of the threat of terrorism and a down economy kept people from travelling. I will try to find some real stats from the local news. But having been at the world's biggest beer garden on the final days, I'm not sure how they could have packed any additional people into the Wiesn grounds. So perhaps in the end, it was just a bit less hairy and crazy than in previous years.

One More Round

Oktoberfest may be finishing today, but we certainly are not. Oktoberfest officially ends today, but I may stretch it out a few more days because we have plenty of impressions to share, stories to tell, and photos to post. Here's one from the Paulaner tent, which I would describe as crunchy on the outside, but juicy in the middle. The outside rows of the tent were filled with company sponsorships, where everyone was festive, and enjoying the novelty of being at Oktoberfest. On the other hand, they were all quite reserved (at least for the first few hours) as they knew there would be stoires for years among their co-workers. With nenough beer though, even the largest barriers are forgotten and everyone was soon toasting wiht all the tables aorund them. In the middle of the tent though, near the band, that's what I lovingly call the Mosh Pit. With everyone standing on the benches and tables, it was like walking sown a narrow hallway, with revelers hanging over each side. It was simply amazing. This couple was clearly leading by example.

Smashing Saturday

The Oktoberfest capped off two weeks of good weather with a blowout Saturday. This was the scene by 11 am with rides full, and by noon all the tents were closed due to over capacity. There were points where it was difficult to walk through the hoards of people. And you see the impact all over Munich, as many restaurants run at low or no capacity. One hostess mentioned that when the weather is good, everyone stays at Oktoberfest because they can sit at the outdoor beer gardens. Lots of locals said this was the first dry (meaning weather, and certainly not alcohol consumption) Oktoberfest they could remember. The word on the stree tis that attendance is down this year, but you would have not known it yesterday. Either way, we had to escape by about noon, to where esle, a beer garde - at least one that was not quite so busy.

Apres Wiesn Party

Just because Oktoberfest shuts down at 11 pm each night, doesn't mean the party stops around Munich. All over the city, you will find Apres Wiesn parties lasting into the wee hours of the morning. Many of the local bars take a big hit as residents and guests stay at Oktoberfest, and this is one of the ways the bars keep Oktoberfest profitable. This was the scene at one of our favorite beer gardens, the Park Cafe. A local DJ was guest starring, but it was the two go-go girls who seemed to steal the show. The Park Cafe is one of those places that doubles as a Sunday brunch location with live Jazz music, and as a lively club at night. It's proximity to the central station and the Wiesn, meant it was packed every night after Oktoberfest, and this night was no exception with about 500 people there.

Love is in the Air

Oh yes, love is everywhere at Oktoberfest...at least in the form of thousands of gingerbread hearts, decorated with amazingly sweet and colorful icing. The ginerbread (like) hearts are actually called Lebkuchen, and it is a mainstay at German festivals. Despite having origins dating back to the Egyptions, the modern day Lebkuchen dates back to 1296 where it was made in Ulm and Nurnberg. Today Nurnberg is the number one producer and exporter of the product, and it's become known as the Nurnberger Lebkuchen. The tradition started when Nurnberg emperor Friedrich III invited more than 4000 children of the city for a Lebkuchen bearing his printed portrait. Now Oktoberfest is reaping the benefits, with inscriptions of everything from names, to famous Bavarian greetings, to sophmoric beer drinking statements - all in the fun of Oktoberfest.

The Friends You Meet Along the Way

This is the second year in a row I’ve done a similar post on this, because I’m amazed that every time I go to Oktoberfest and sit in one of the tents or outdoor beer gardens – I always meet some very cool and interesting people. Some are passing through Munich on a tour through Europe, others are long-term residents from Bavaria, others are students hoping to catch a bit of the party. The world is converging on Munich, and it’s fun to watch the population swing through in hopes of picking up a bit of the Bavarian culture. But for all of you who only come through Munich during this time of revelry, you should know that the same spirit is there year round, wrapped into what a beergarden culture is supposed to be. Casual, laid back, and friendly.

The Breathalyzer Girl

It’s not every day that the tools of police work enter your party. But this is Oktoberfest, and this is the Hofbrau tent, where it takes with pride the reputation of being the drunkest tent on the Oktoberfest grounds. Here you will find the highest number of foreigners, generally not prone to drinking in such great quantities, and definitely not accustomed to drinking the stronger Oktoberfest beers. Besides, if you can make a few $$ off it, then it generally shows up here. So here’s the deal. You pay the nice lady to get your alcohol level tested for no other reason than to gain bragging rights for getting your level so high. This is the disgusted look of one of the party goers when he only registered a .25 (note that .08 is considered too drunk to drive in the US). When asked what the highest of the day was, she said a blood alcohol rate of .8. I didn’t know this was actually possible. At any rate, the man pictured took solace in the fact that he received a nice certificate telling of his accomplishments, and successfully fell down the stairs as he walked away. Yes. That’s Oktoberfest at the Hofbrau Tent.

The Power of the Dirndl

One of the most “visibile” elements of Oktoberfest is the traditional Bavarian clothing – the lederhosen and dirndls. They are fantastic, and you see these colorful outfits all over town and all over Oktoberfest. Now most people go the traditional route with bold colors and beautiful aprons, and others… well they go a completely different direction. Take the table next to us in the Hofbrau tent last night. If this woman was revealing any more of her fine Bavarian tradition, I wouldn’t be able to show it on this blog. Everyone knows the dirndl is all about tactfully showing off the breasts, but some of the new styles go a little too far. But perhaps the man across from her doesn’t agree. I can’t tell if he is really drunk, or just mesmerized by her breasts.

Leading the Calf to the Slaughter

That’s the way it felt trying to squeeze out of Hackerbrucke S-bahn station on the way to the Oktoberfest. Hundreds of party goers arrived on each train, and the local police had crowd control down to a science – keeping everyone clear of the train, and funneling arrivals through one stairway, and drunk departures through another. The entire bridge is shut down, and only available for pedestrians. This was how most of the Oktoberfest felt during “Italian” weekend where thousands of Italians come up and take over the fest. On the sides of the photo, you can see the endless construction of new homes and shopping center, which are reinventing and reforming the neighborhoods around the tracks. I’m told that 16,000 new units will be created by the time construction is complete.

A Topys-Turvy World

Especially when you are the world’s biggest beer garden. Like most beer gardens in Munich, the kids stuff is always nearby – so that both adults and kids can have a play day. I mentioned the rides at Oktoberfest yesterday, as you have more than 70 rides and shows to pick from; and you’re sure to see the rides packed on Tuesdays as it’s family day, and rides are half price. Like every year at Oktoberfest, you will always find a few new rides. One of the new features for 2009 is “The Tower,” which is sort of a big vertical playground inside, as well as great views atop the 28M tower. In the same theme, you will also find the “Silberturm,” a 10M tower which you ride to the top and free fall to the bottom. And finally, you will find Psychedelic, which is, no surprise, a tribute to the hippies, which leads you through a crazy labyrinth. With all those new items, I ended up selecting an “oldie, but a goodie” for today’s photo – the endless slide. I just loved the contrast of the father and son silhouette gliding through the up and down world that is Oktoberfest.

Birds of a Feather, Fly Together

Who says Oktoberfest is all about the beer tents? In addition to the massive 14 beer halls at Oktoberfest (each one has the capacity of up to 5000), you will find an endless variety of rides and amusements – everything from roller coasters to bumper cars, to fun houses. I came across these three young ladies in traditional wear hanging out on some sort of vertical carousel. I stopped by on a weekday afternoon, and loved all the festivities. You find that energy there every day of the week. I mentioned this many times before, but the great thing about Oktoberfest is how excited and passionate the locals get about the celebration. Sure you have 6 million visitors each year, but in Munich you see people in traditional clothes all over town – at work, on the S-bahn, and certainly heading over to the Wiessen. Sunday will be our night at the beer hall, with a table reserved with great friends. I look forward to sharing an insider view with you.

And so it Begins...

So I’ve been a bit delayed getting over to Oktoberfest – a full week in fact. Last year, our first full year in Munich, I felt I was at Oktoberfest every day in September. This year, I thought I would ease into it, and what better day than Family Day? Why ease into it, you ask? Well Oktoberfest in Munich is an all-encompassing thing. Take a look at the local papers and you will understand - 50% of the articles are already on Oktoberfest – beer, beer, and more beer. If you are in Munich, there’s no way of getting around it. So you might as well strap on your Lederhosen and dirndl and join the party. So lots more to come in the next few days, but I thought I would share this picture of a regal couple in front of the Spaten beer trailer. They look amazing, and amazingly Bavarian. It was the strangest thing. It seemed that in front of every beer trailer, there was someone with matching color, pattern, and demeanor. It was like a beer endorsement around every corner. In the end, it was just people having fun at Oktoberfest.

Watching the Ladies

In so many ways, Munich is no different than anywhere else on the planet. I came across this group of boys sitting at the Augistiner Beerhall on Neuhauser Strasse, looking all so casual, checking out the ladies passing by. This is life in the Altstadt on a sunny day, packed with people passing by. The Augustiner Beerhall is actually in the location of the original Augustiner Brewery, which has since moved out to Landsburgerstasse – just outside the center of Munich. This remains the only one of six Munich breweries that is family-run. All the others – Franziskaner, Spaten, Lowenbrau, Paulaner, and Hofbrau have all been purchased by conglomerates like in-bev. The age of the independent brewing is long gone, and only a few exist to this day.

The Global Blockbuster

Like most places in Europe, Munich receives its share of Hollywood blockbusters. In fact, more and more often these are coordinated across a global scale. Avatar, this year’s expected Hollywood blockbuster directed by James Cameron, will hit Germany and 31 other countries on or around Dec. 17th. Advertising – in colossal form (this sign is about 50 feet high on the front of the multi-plex movie house at Karlsplatz), has already started three months in advance. In addition to the incredible amount of multi-plex movie houses that have opened up in Munich in the past 15 years, you can still find quaint, single screen movie houses around Munich – especially in the Schwabing neighborhood. Usually they are nestled between apartments on side streets, and really targeted at the neighborhood residents. Unfortunately, much like in the US, these theatres look to also be dying out; so catch a movie in one of these great theatres before they are all gone.

Summer’s Fading Moments

Two women get their information fix at the base of the Max-Joseph statue in the platz by the same name in one of the fleeting glimpses of Summer. Max-Joseph Platz is flanked by the Residence, the National Opera House, the Residence strasse, and Maximillian Strasse. It’s one of the many large open spaces in the center of Munich. Apparently, King Max-Joseph didn’t like the design of his statue, which is seated and giving a blessing. He preferred an equestrian pose, but after the king died suddenly in 1825, the first draft of the design was accepted and has been standing there ever since. Max-Joseph was a great opera fan and built the Opera House. The building burnt down shortly after its completion, but was rebuilt with the money raised by taxing – what else – but beer.

Are YOU Ready?

Octoberfest starts in 3 days, 12 hours, and 35 minutes – not that anyone is counting. You are hard pressed to find anything in Munich that is not impacted – positively and negatively – by Octoberfest. We have a table reserved at one of the tents, late in the Octoberfest season, which this year runs from Sept. 19th to October 4th. So I will try to share with you some interesting perspectives. This weekend kicks off Octoberfest with several parades (including the colorful costume parade) and the tapping of the first keg by Munich Mayor Christian Ude. Then it’s nearly three weeks of non-stop partying from 10 am to 11 pm, and then parties spread out across Munich after that. So pull out your dirndl and lederhosen (which is viewed in Munich as everything from common person’s clothes to formal wear), and get ready to join the festivities. You get a peek here of some at some of the more modern, and honestly less interesting fashions this year from Karstadt.

Loosening Up About Sex

No big surprise here. Attitudes toward sex make up one of the more interesting cultural divides between Europe and the US. Europeans tend to have much more liberal views when it comes to sex and their bodies, and it shows all over life here. Even in conservative Bavaria, there’s no shortage of nudity in the parks or at beaches along the rivers. There have also been reports of state sponsored shows and documentaries throughout Europe, that would be considered pornographic in the US. I came across this listing for the top story of the day in the local newspaper: “What women want. The top 20 sex tips.” I didn’t pick up the paper, but I’m sure it had no shortage of graphic photos. In the US, you are more likely to see violence on TV and in magazines than sex. I personally think the Europeans are onto something, and us Americans should lighten up a bit.

A Late Look at Lilalu

I’m a little late on this post, as it’s been a week since I visited the Lilalu festival at the Olympic park I’m not quite sure I understand this particular kinder festival. I think it has the most captivating poster (which I tried to repeat in the photo), yet the festival itself seems to be a bit desolate. It reminds me of the travelling carnivals in the US, always a bit random, a bit make-shift and a bit creepy. At this event, you found rides sprawling out in every direction across the gravel field, then a big stage where entertainers sang and danced with the kids, the customary hippy shops, and a play area so dark very few kids played there. The saving grace was the firemen showing the kids how to use the hoses – which was quite cute - and the parachute play (pictured here).

Bavarian Bookends

I came across this funny scene with a bare-chested man in front of the Jewish Community Center at St. Jakobs-Platz, with two female onlookers. I’ve written many times about open nudity throughout Munich, but even this shirtless man seemed a bit out of place in the busy and uptight square. The idea of a Jewish museum in Munich originated likely before the bare man was born, 78 years ago. But it wasn’t until 2007 that it was inaugurated. The facility now houses an elementary school, kindergarten, and youth center. The museum is designed as a freestanding cube with a transparent ground floor lobby. The two top floors house changing exhibitions, a learning center, and a library. The museum had one primary benefactor, the City of Munich – which still manages the facility today.

Hofbrau History

The brewery of the Royal Court, Dukes, creation of and monopoly for Weissbeer, Munich’s first beer festival, a home for the Nazi party, total destruction by allied bombing, and reconstruction better than ever before… It’s all part of the amazing history that is the Hofbrau house. What was founded in 1579 by Wilhelm V, the Duke of Bavaria, as a response of the costly import of beer from Einbeck - is now a worldwide phenomenon. Over the past decade, the Hofbrau House has expanded across Germany and the rest of the world. You will now find breweries in Miami, Pittsburgh, Newport, and Las Vegas. Known for inspiring the famous song and the phrase, "oans, zwoa, g'suffa" (bavarian dialect for: "one, two, chug"), the Hofbrau brewery has been a central part of the Octoberfest since its beginnings. Although it’s not my favorite beerhall in Munich ( you can do much better with Lowenbrau, Augustiner) because of the tremendous amount of tourists, you can find tours in English Tuesday through Thursday by appointment only.

Lady in Red

I came across this woman, wonderfully dressed, in the old style arcades that line Maxmilianstrasse Strasse. My best guess is that she was on her way to the opera, across the street at the National Theatre. There’s no shortage of events – either Opera or Ballet – at the National Theatre. Seems to be one every day, and night. Not to be undone by her bright red shawl, the woman had florescent red hair – I’m sure to match a bright personality. Not sure what it is in Germany, but you tend to see hair dyed very dramatically. The street is filled with neo-Gothic architecture as one of the four royal avenues leading into the Altstadt. The Western side (as pictured here) is the city’s most exclusive with Dolce & Gabanna, Versace, Louis Vuitton, Dior, Chanel, Gucci, and Dior.

Surfs Up…At Least for Now

I’ve posted about the world famous Eisbach in downtown Munich before. Apparently, the concept and sport of river surfing was invented in Munich, back in 1972 on several points along the Isar River. Over the years, the wave at Eisbach has been modified to create a perfect standing wave, which is about 1 meter high and only 12 meters wide. There are constant battles between experienced surfers and beginners, as the Eisbach is quite dangerous and the regulars know that any severe accidents could shut them down for good. The river surfing has always been illegal, but has never been enforced. Apparently there is a better wave for beginners in Flosslande, near Thalkirchen U-Bahn station, and a third wave on the Isar near the bridge Wittlesbacherbruke – but only on flood levels.

Play it Again, Sam.

I’m not sure what the regulations are for street performers in the Altstadt of Munich, but more and more of these entertainers seem to be showing up around town every day. Perhaps out of work means a lot of free time on their hands. Usually you find jokers, jugglers, and sometimes musicians. I came across this young lady strumming her banjo for a small crowd of onlookers. I’m not sure if it’s a characteristic of being on holiday, that represents having more time on your hands – but it’s amazing what will draw a crowd. It’s not just Munich, but you see them around the world. Silver Man, who is spray painted head-to-toe in silver, the table guy who has his head through the top of the table and surrounded by fruit. And, of course, the real entertainers who play music, act, or otherwise captivate the locals and tourist alike. More power to them.

Having a Ball

Whether you call it Bocce or Pétanque or kegeln (German version - Thanks Holger), there’s no question that the traditional game of choice by the Italians and French alike involve throwing metal balls around and trying to get closest to the jack. Go to any park in Southern France, or in areas around Italy and you see older men going at it on a 25 meter playing surface. Often you will find groups lined up next to each other, for the game that seems to be as much social as it is competition. It’s the European version of bowling, but instead of dating to the 50s, dates back to the Roman Empire. Therefore, you will find it anywhere you find Italians – and there are no shortage in the Northern-most Italian city, Munich. At some time in the early 1900s, the game was rebranded in France as Pétanque in Provence and has lived on in its own right. Today, you can find Bocce or Pétanque primarily in the Hofgarten of Munich. I was happy to see a whole new generation of players, between the age of 20-30, bringing new life to the competition.

The Blind Leading the Blind

Several boys passing by take notice of a blind beggar on Sendlinger Strasse. The blind man is a regular on this spot, and becomes as much of the neighborhood reputation as the trendy stores around him. In general, Munich is a good a safe place for a blind person to be living. There are multiple academies to support blind students and the social programs provide much support for the blind. However, that doesn’t prevent horrible accidents like the one that killed a 29 year old blind woman one month ago – who mistook the space between two U-bahn cars as a door and fell into the tracks. I see blind people making their way through the central station quite often, with a pep in their step that many of the first-time visitors do not even have. It gives me a tremendous amount of respect for them

Coffee in a Time Machine

I came across this great café on Agustenstrasse, which just called out for a different age. Judging by the interior, I’d say it looked this way since its heyday in the 50s. Old yellow upholstery on the lounge chairs, gold wall paper, and waitresses who look like they’ve worked there for decades. Every time I go by it, it’s filled with couples and friends who fill up the old-school lounge seats or the outdoor seats on sunny days. And somehow with its living room atmosphere, it’s one of those places you feel like you need an invitation for – or to be in the “in” crowd, which is amazing as it’s a bit of a dive. But I think that’s what people love about it – an ageless beauty. This was the scene after midnight the other night, which in itself is strange for a neighborhood café – when everything else seems to close at 8 pm. No surprise that the cafe is a favorte of students at the nearby univeristy.

Munich’s own “Red Balloon”

I came across this little girl with a cluster of balloons dragging along wherever she went. It immediately reminded me of the old film, The Red Balloon. Of course, the movie is French – set in Paris. Albert Lamorisse directed the film in 1956, and it immediately became a worldwide favorite. Both of his children starred in the movie. The movie ends as some bullies destroy the friendly red balloon, and other balloons from all over the city come to the little boy’s rescue. At any point, you expect these balloons to take flight, and pull the little girl out of the Hofgarten where she is playing, while a mix of Munich locals and tourists taking notice - and well over the English Garden only to land in some quaint Bavarian village.

Inner City Sanctuaries

I’m not quite sure how to describe St. Boniface’s church and abbey, only 200 meters from the central train station. On one hand, it’s a part of Munich history, as it was instated by King Ludwig I as an attempt to reanimate the country’s spiritual life, and today’s houses the tomb of Ludwig I himself. On the other hand, today it is a parish church, serving the surrounding community. It’s a bit strange to look at the building, as it was nearly completely destroyed during WWII, and only partially reconstructed – yet you can see every detail that is new vs old. In some ways, it embodies the German people – certainly shocked and destroyed by the defeat of the allied powers, and in some ways embarrassed by the local role in the holocaust; yet absolutely resolute that today they are doing the right thing. It’s a contrast that I don’t think exists in the US, and honestly one that I hope is never needed there.

At Rest

It turns out this is a nice contrast to yesterday’s photo of “On the Move.” Seems construction sites are the same throughout the world – with 5 people standing around while watching one person dig. As a matter of fact, no one was doing much work at this construction site. It seems like the entire city is under construction – with the never-ending construction on highway 9 as you enter the city, an amazing amount of streets torn up, and even well known monuments like the Frauenkiche going through renovation. You see this a lot around Europe these days, especially with the rotating EU presidency, which pumps investment into capital cities every 18 months. Germany is not in that line, but you wouldn’t know. I believe a lot of these projects began before the economic downturn. At any rate, these guys don’t care. They’re picking up a check every month. And as we are finding out through the “Cash for Clunkers” program that has been, a little government investment in a down economy is never a bad idea.

On the Move

A visit to the Munich Airport shows non-stop activity – people coming and going from around the world. Officially called Flughafen München-Franz Josef Strauß – named after a popular German politician, it serves as a hub for Lufthansa. It is the second busiest airport in Germany and eighth busiest in the world, with 35 million passengers per year. The thing that always amazes me about the Munich airport, is how it’s built like a mini Sim-City, with airport overlapping with train, car, bus, bike, and foot traffic. The airport infrastructure is larger than most Bavarian villages around, with hotels, convention center, shopping center, entertainment, cinema, and visitor center, and of course brew pub. This image was taken on one of the many moving sidewalks on the lower level of Terminal 1.

Warhol Meets Munich

Munich’s newest (and by far the most colorful) museum is the Brandhorst Museum, which opened in May of this year. With more than 700 works, including more than 100 by Andy Warhol; the museum is a strong compliment to Munich’s Pinakothek der Moderne. The collection stems from the heirs of the Henkel (home & personal care company based in Dusseldorf) trust and Anette Brandhorst. The museum is actually most well known for its colorful exterior. The façade looks like an abstract painting itself, with its 23 different colored glazes as its image changes based upon your vantage point. The museum also has an impressive endowment of €120 million, which in normal years gives the museum an acquisition budget of more than €2 million, much more than any other collection in Munich.

Where's the Schinken?

Somehow it doesn't have the same ring as that American phrase - Where's the Beef? Meat is an important element of the German diet, and no type of meat is more popular in Germany than pork. This photo illustrates the scene in hundreds of butchers across Munich. Germans are famous for their sausage. They have 4 basic types of sausage (Wurst) - Rohwurst, Bruhwurst, Kockwurst, and Bratwurst. In 2008, German people consumed 62 kilos per person – of which 40% was pork, according to the German Butcher Organisation Deutscher Fleischer-Verband (DFV). This ranks Germans among one of the highest consumers of meat in the EU, obtaining 39% of their total calorie intake from meat products, compared with 25% in Italy (which could explain the average size difference in the two countries), according to Germany’s federal environmental agency. With that said, meat consumption is on the decline in Germany – mostly because of health concerns.

The White Rose

A late-night rendezvous of two lovers at the Ludwig Maximillian University fountains at Professor Huber Platz in Munich. The White Rose refers not only to the look of the fountain behind the couple, but also an intellectual, non-violent uprising to Nazi occupation in Germany during WWII. Professor Kurt Huber came in contact with the movement through some students in his lectures, and the group published a series of flyers calling for the end of National Socialism. Six leaders of the group, including Huber, were discovered by the Gestabo, arrested and killed. The legacy of the White Rose lives on in the media, in monuments like these, and in the German psyche.

Back on the Ground

Now that we are done with aerial views around Munich, I thought I would show you some scenes back on the ground. I came across this image, and it struck me as I think it sums up some of the persona of Germans. Amazingly confident. Some might say arrogant. We are regularly stopped on the street by strangers and told we are doing something wrong, or by neighbors who discover we recycled incorrectly. It also reminds me that although some locals are friendly and jovial, many others are unapproachable and stand-offish. Perhaps this is like any place, but this characteristic really seems to stand out in Munich. In the end, I like how this person stands out from the busy market in the background – in this case at the Sendlingertor gate. In this way, it is different from the norm – fiercely independent in a society geared toward conformity.

Bavarian “Village” Life

Above Munich – Day 15: And for our final day of images from Above Munich, I take you far above the city – this time from an airplane. This photo was taken on the approach to Joseph Strauss Airport, just North of Munich. From this vantage point you can see the endless fields and forests that surround Munich. You also notice how green the region is. Once you get out of the cities, these areas are littered with quaint little villages – each with their towering church steeples, rich decorations, local food markets, and Christmas fairs. Much of life doesn’t seem to have changed for hundreds of years in these small villages. And much of the reason Munich is called a “Large Village” is because with 1.3 million residents, it maintains a lot of that tradition that has lived out in these small villages for centuries.