Bavaria’s BMW Escorted Police

 

Well, what else would you expect the Polizei of Munchen to drive but a BMW? With more than 32,000 police and nearly 6,000 civilian employees, Munich has one of the largest police forces in Germany.  Compared to many European cities, Munich’s crime is quite low, although there are occasional reports of murders and muggings, most often committed by youth groups around the U/S-Bahn late at night.  Actually, a significant percentage of Munich crime is committed by organized gangs from Eastern Europe.  Here are a few of the higher profile crimes in Munich over the past few decades.  In 2005, fashion designer Rudolph Moshammer was killed in his home. In 1998, Georgio Basile was released after killing 30 people, as he testified and led to the arrest of 50 Mafia numbers,  In 1994, known as the Plutonium Affair, a security person discovered 363 g of plutonium on a smuggler.  And finally, in 1972, you see the fateful day at the Olympics where Palestinian terrorists attacked the Israeli  athletes.

Slogging Down Nymphenburg Strasse

Once the principal road connecting the old town Munich to the summer residence of rulers of Bavaria - it's Nymphenburg strasse. Today, it represents one of the main thoroughfares leading through neighborhoods Maxvorstadt, Neuhausen, and Nympenburg. Like many other streets in Munich, it continued to be covered with snow. It's quit interesting, in fact, which streets they choose to completely plow, and which they don't. At any rate, amongst the old early 1900 villas, as well as the post war box buildings, Nymphenburg provides a bit of charm because of its tree-lined boulevard.

Snug Like a Bug in a Rug

That is a bug, but not so snug under a good 6 inches of snow that absolutely pummeled Munich...scratch that, pummeled Europe today. All over Europe, we heard stories of of traffic coming to a grinding halt. More than 100 flights were cancelled today at Munich Airport, and many, many more were delayed - or simply still sitting on the runway. Most of the inner city still works, but there have been reports of delays on train lines, and certainly the bus and tram lines were impacted. The really disturbing news is that the same weather is expected for the next four days, so this could be just the beginning. Grab your boots and your ski-wear, and get ready for the snow that just keeps on coming.

Skating in a Winter Wonderland

With more than a week of sub-zero temperatures, it seemed most of Munich flocked to the frozen lakes around the city. Here you can see the canal leading up to Nympenburg Palace, and the thousands of people playing games of Eisstockschiessen (or Ice Stock Sport - a sort of curling mixed with shuffleboard). We skated at the end of the canal today, and it was really fun, but at the same time crazy. I'm always so surprised when there is no order in Munich, but this was a good example - with really, really bad skaters playing hockey in the middle of the open skating surface and pucks whizzing by passing skaters. At any rate, I love this time of year in Munich, when you can skate on the frozen ponds with the palaces as your backdrop. Truly a unique Munich experience.

Two Heads Are Better than One

So I have to admit I've been quite intrigued by the double-headed Eagle all over Germany. This image came form the Schloss Blutenburg (Blood Castle) in Munich, which is also home to the

International Youth Library. You see the double headed Eagle in Munich in everything from Nazi regalia to today's government organizations. Yet it's origins date back to the 13th century BC, with heavy roots in the Holy Roman Empire, Byzantine culture as well as many of the Eastern European cultures. In fact, the double-headed eagle still represents the insignia of the modern day Austrian empire, coat of arms for the German Confederation, as well as the Russian Empire - among many others. As with so many things in history, it represents a fusion between the Roman Empire, the Turkish and Ottoman expansion, and finally the basis of many Eastern countries today.

Palm Sunday

The butler is in...sort of speak. It's not really Palm Sunday as you know, but it is Sunday and this is a pic of the Palm Garden on the grounds of Nympenburg. Inside, it's a slice out of the 1800s, with its rot-iron detailing, palm trees, and ceiling fans. The building was one of three former greenhouses during the court of King Ludwig II, and claims to have had Germany's first hot-water heating system. It was built in 1820 as a modern marvel, and contributed to the increased interest of the early 19th century botany, which Ludwig had a special interest in.

Winter Wear

As Winter approaches in Munich, every year they do an amazing thing. They cover up all of the statues around town with custom-made boxes to prevent freezing and cracking of the marble or stone. It's amazing because all of the box cases are custom made for each statue. Even on some of the largest fountains in the city, you will find custom-made boxing to protect it throught he harsh Bavarian Winter. I thought an interesting way to tell about that, is to show this cute little Box Top climbing above one of the casings on the grounds of the Nymphenburg palace.

The Headless Horsemen

Happy Halloween! Of course, they don't really celebrate Halloween in Munich or anywhere in Germany, but I just couldn't help sharing this photo of dad and his two trusty side kicks. How they became headless, no one will tell. But it's just not every day you see such a scene in the regularly up & up Munich. I've searched far and near, and the only Halloween celebrations I can come up with are a few under-30 parties and some ex-pats hosting parties. But to be forewarned, Germans think of Haloween as something very different than Americans. Little kids dressed up in fun outfits, are replaced with gore, gore, gore. Not sure why this difference, but it's a bit of a shock if you are expecting anything but vampires and demons.

Neptune's Garden

On the other side, you have the Nymphenburg gardens, with the close-by botanical gardens, this represents one of the largest inner-city parks in Europe. More than a 200-hectacre park, this space has seen its side of personality renewals - Italian, French, German & English - all within the past 300 years and expanding with each redesign.. At one point it was desinged by an apprentice of the same designer who created Versailles. From this picture, you can see the large 900 meter canal that bisects the park and extends from the palace all the way to the S1 train line. At points, the canal is lined with statues of Greek gods. Apparently, there have been few changes tot he gardens since about 1800, which you can enjoy on any given day in Munich.

Swan Song

The two sides of Nymphenburg Palace. One one side, you have a rare glimpse into Bavarian royalty, as the great Baroque palace was built in 1675 (the two ousdie pavallions were added in 1701) as the Summer residence of the rulers of Bavaria. This was also the site where King Ludwig II was born in 1845. The palace was then extended over time to reach its current length of about 700 meters long, and it is still lived in today by the chancery for the head of the house of Wittlesbach, currently Franz, Duke of Bavaria. A small amount of the Palace is open to the public today, with its extensive ceiling frescos, Nymphenburg porcelain workshop, and one of the most important ancient carriage museums. Today, Nymphenburg is one of the most visited cultural sites in Bavaria, with more than 300,000 visitors annually, even more than the Munich Residence in the center of town. And unlike the Residence, Nymphenburg palace does not appear to have been destroyed during WWII, maintaining much of its original decor and charm.

A Place in the Sun

OK, so we’ve had rain nearly every day for the past two weeks. But at the same time, we’ve had sun nearly every day for the past two weeks. This is Spring in Munich, and you can tell we are in seasonal transitions. But as you get ready for Summer, I think there are a tremendous amount of things to do outdoors around Munich. Here are some of my favorites, and a few suggestions from others. Bike, run, walk, sit, surf, skinny dip, sleep along the Isar. I hope you get the picture. Do anything (clothed or not) along the Isar. It’s great. Rollerblade around the Regatta near Schloss Schleissheim. Built for the 1972 Olympics, it’s 4.5 KM around and perfectly flat. Wander through the English Gardens and stop at EVERY beer garden you find. Bike through the Olympicpark, and explore all it has to offer. Try out one of the many outdoor pools, which are more like waterparks than anything else. Most people pay the cheap fee (usually around 3 euros), bring their lunch, and stay all day. For the hell of it, go test drive a BMW, and see how fast highway 9 turns to NO speed limit. OK. This is not outdoors, but find a convertible and call it good. Hang out at the endless cafes along Leopoldstrasse, and experience the heart of Schwabing. Wander between Nymphenburg and the Botanical Gardens. Like I said, there’s absolutely no shortage of things to do, so ensure you make the most of the part of day where the sun shines bright.

The Mighty King Triton

In the picturesque Nymphenburg gardens, you will find a collection of Mythical statues that add to the Italian garden’s epic appearance. The Greek messenger of the sea is usually represented as a merman, although this statue shows him in human form. Much like his mythical home, Triton lived in a beautiful garden setting under the sea. Although stories conflict on the actual location of Triton’s home under the sea (most believe off the coast of Lybia), they are consistent on his family order. He was the father of the goddesses Pallas and foster parent of Athena, the goddess of heroic endeavor - who became the patron of Athens where they built the Parthenon to worship her. Back in Munich with this Triton, the 500 acre park is quite a place to explore this time of year – either for the Rococo palace built in the 1600s as a summer residence or for the multiple pavilions that line the park.

A Splish & A Splash

I have to say that one of the best things about living in Munich are the amazing swimming pools. Growing up in the US, pools were quite one dimensional – think of a box with water in them. Yet the pools in Munich are like water wonderlands. Most facilities have approximately 5 different pools, one for babies, another for those just learning to swim, one with a river current, one for swimming laps, and another as a hot tub. I profiled the art nouveau Volksbad a few weeks ago, and every time I arrive at a new pool, I’m amazed at how well they are built. Pictured, you have the Dante bad, an outdoor complex that reopened last year after several years of renovation. There are two kids pools, water slides, one for diving, and even one for nudists (which Munich is full of – by the way.) Some people say it’s even better during the Winter when outdoor pools are warmed to 30 degrees. After having visited the Nord, Volks, West, and Dante – I’ve been blown away by all of them. Many of the outdoor facilities, you can arrive in the morning, spread out your towel, and stay all day long. Swim, sleep, whatever you like.

Take a Walk on the Mild Side

The lingering sun has illuminated all sorts of amazing sides of Munich, many of which we have not seen for months. I caught this great glimpse of the late afternoon sun at the grounds of Nymphenburg Palace, a great place to get lost in Munich. The 490-acre Palace grounds cover a large section of Northwest Munich. Inside you find stunning stone figures of Greek Gods, which are just coming out of hibernation. Amazingly, most statues in Munich are covered throughout the Winter in custom-made wooden cases, and these are no exception. The statues are at the base of a canal that splits the grounds in two. At one time, a menagerie served as an attraction for the children of Maximilian IV Joseph. In addition, the Dressage Facility was used for Equestrian riding during the 1972 Olympics. 300,000 people visit Nymphenburg Palace each year, but only a fortunate few find their ways to the amazing grounds that surround the Palace.

Garbage in/Garbage Out

One of the greatest benefits of living in a society that prides itself on order is FREE TRASH DROPOFF! With a dozen drop off points around Munich and the ability to get rid of just about everything, you may never have trash on your street again. Back in the states it would cost you $25 minimum per visit, and in Paris we never found such an important treasure. But there it was a bit different. Just leave things at your doorstep, and guaranteed they were gone within 10 minutes. Everything was recycled. But back in Munich, you can drop off cardboard, glass, plastics, wood, yard waste, furniture, metal, and about 20 other things I can’t remember. You just show your trash to the floor assistants, and they point you to the right bin. It’s easy and it’s free. This is a godsend for those just moving to Munich, and need to get rid of all those IKEA boxes.

Peace Among the Madness

Trying to find the core of the parkland that surrounds Nymphenburg Palace is a bit more difficult than you would expect. Nymphenburg palace is surrounded by a 200-hectare parkland that in some places is quite peaceful, in others is a bit conflicted. But this conflict is played out in history. The gardens started as an Italian garden in 1671, but was later enlarged and rearranged by a French pupil of Le Notre. Finally, in the 19th century, the gardens were redesigned once more in an English Manner. Although original characteristics like the Baroque garden were preserved, today the gardens have hints of Chinese in the Pagodenburg, baroque in the Badenburg Pavillion, and rocoocoin in the Amalienburg hunting lodge

Welcome to my Summer Palace

With more than 200 acres of parkland surrounding the Nymphenburg place, the gardens have had an Italian (1671), French and finally English (19th century) appearance. Yet the latest garden architect Friedrich Ludwig Von Sckell left the baroque garden in tact for us to enjoy today. Extending the park grounds are both the long canal, which has become a local favorite for walking or biking, and the garden which regenerates itself every three months. And within the park are a broad number of pavilions, including the Badenburg, which contains banqueting hall and very large tiled bath, the Mgdalenenklause, a faux ruin for retreat and meditation, the Amalienburg, a hunting lodge considered a rocococo masterpiece, and finally the Apollotemple, a neoclassical temble.

The Palace Pagoda

It had been a while since we visited Nymphenburg Palace, the one-time summer home of the Wittlesbach family; and we were stunned by how beautiful it was today. It was cold, yet sunny and the grounds were covered with fields of gold from fallen leaves. Fortunately, we arrived just before they boxed up all the statues (all statues in Munich are covered with custom made wooden cases each Winter to prevent damage). We stopped by the Octagon shaped Pagodenburg, where four locals met for coffee before continuing their trek along the extensive grounds. I always wonder if these little structures in the middle of the palace grounds were actually places for rendezvous with mistresses and other partners. Either way, it made for a beautiful setting today, as it sits on a small lake and next to one of the many beautiful canals. The interior, although we didn’t see it because it closes in early October, is decorated with pseudo Chinese motifs, often using Dutch tiles in place of Chinese ones. Other highlights of the Nymphenburg grounds include the Amalienburg (hall of mirrors), the Badenburg bathing room, and the botanical gardens nearby.

Homes Without Neighborhoods

In what’s being described as a new model for city living, more than 17,000 new homes are being built in an 8 kilometer stretch along the train tracks between the central train station and Nymphenburg/Laim. Apartment building after apartment building are taking over where rails and train containers once ruled the land. On the surface, what’s not to like – deluxe apartments a stone throw away from the center of town and built literally on top of great transportation. And the development has resulted in great additions like the Sportpark, but there still seems to be something missing. What they forget is that every community needs a center –whether that be for shopping or gathering or practicing religion. And none of that exists – for the 17,000 homes and possibly 40,000 people who will live in this area. It results into a commuter lifestyle, that unfortunately has been described as without a soul.

City of Art & Culture

Munich Pop History Day 6: The arts have always been an important part of Munich’s history, as this example of the ceiling of Nymphenburg palace illustrates (thank you guest photographer). Based upon a groundswell of artist colonies throughout Munich, Maximillian I of Bavaria founded the Munich Academy of Fine Arts in 1808, one of the oldest and most significant art academies in Germany. The academy played a significant role in the Jugendstil (youth movement), the basis of the Art Nouveau movement in Munich. Most people don’t know Munich as a base for Art Nouveau, but it was one of the cities linked with Paris, Brussels, and others that led the movement. Influential artists, like Otto Eckmann, Richard Riemerschmid, and Hermann Obrist led this movement from Munich. Much of this momentum continued until the exile of much of Munich’s artistic community by the Nazis during WWII.