Brothers & Sisters to the Rescue

Even if it is just to prepare for this year’s finals at Munich’s LMU. There is always a crowd outside the University buildings at Leopoldstrasse, and no shortage of students hanging out around the two large fountains that represent the Living Room or Lounge of Munich’s biggest University. Known as Geschwister-Scholl-Platz, the open space was named in memory of Sophie Scholl and her brother, Hans Scholl. Both were students at LMU, and founding members of the White Rose resistance movement, a non-violent opposition group to Nazi Europe. Most of the members were prosecuted by the Nazis, and later became country heroes for standing up against almost certain death.

Figure Heads

A glance at the facade of the University Church on LudwigStrasse, which looks to be opened for the first time in more than one year.  It had closed for renovation, and the re-opening was significantly delayed as they discovered asbestos , which needed to be removed.  I have never been in the church, but I’m told the frescoes inside are some of the best in the world.  The frescoes are done in large scale, one measuring 62 feet in height by 38 feet.  The dual towers of the church were meant to balance the diagonally opposite Theatinerkirche.  As for this view, it’s the angle from down Schellingstrasse.

Frohe Ostern!

In the Catholic heart of Germany, I thought I would see much more emphasis on Easter. The city of Munich and surrounding Bavaria region observed Good Friday, and Easter Monday. Many people took extended holidays as kids were out of school. However, there just seemed to be little emphasis on the holiday this year. No big festivities that I heard of, and not much mention in the news. Perhaps the entire holiday was over-shadowed with the on-going sex scandal in the Catholic Church. But when the big Easter event is a collection of Creches & Crosses at the Fishing and Hunting museum, it seems quite low profile. About the gist of Easter in Munich seemed to be the random decorations in windows throughout town (as pictured). If you had a different experience, please let me know. Perhaps I missed something or had my head buried in a chocolate Easter Egg.

The White Rose

A late-night rendezvous of two lovers at the Ludwig Maximillian University fountains at Professor Huber Platz in Munich. The White Rose refers not only to the look of the fountain behind the couple, but also an intellectual, non-violent uprising to Nazi occupation in Germany during WWII. Professor Kurt Huber came in contact with the movement through some students in his lectures, and the group published a series of flyers calling for the end of National Socialism. Six leaders of the group, including Huber, were discovered by the Gestabo, arrested and killed. The legacy of the White Rose lives on in the media, in monuments like these, and in the German psyche.

Book Ends

It’s not every day you are surrounded by Homer and Aristotle, the great Greek storyteller and philosopher. But when you are standing in front of the Bavarian State Library on Ludwigstrasse, you should expect the royal treatment. The entire street was built in early Italian Renaissance style and commissioned by Kind Ludwig I. The first thing you will notice is the uniformity of all buildings along this stretch of the street. The next you will notice is the four huge statues at the entry of the library (the others are historian Thukydides and the medical scientist Hippokrates). Then you may discover that the library is one of the largest in the German-speaking world with 9 million books, and celebrating its 450th anniversary. Finally, you will discover that despite the fact that most people in Munich are quite friendlz, not all of them are - as these two prove in immediately turning away from the photo. Oh well, say cheese to an amazing history, architecture, and collection of books.

Back Below Ground

Several weeks ago, I told you about this incredible network of trains that have become such a life blood of Munich. I wanted to bring you back underground once more because this is new territory for most Americans. Remove New York, D.C., San Francisco and there really is no such thing as mass transit in the US. Many cities may have good bus connections, but in Munich, for example, there is a well thought out mix of trains, busses and trams to take you just about anywhere in the city. A single ticket generally works on all forms of transportation. And those systems link into the suburban trains, regional trains, and make easy transport to and from the airport. In some ways, pubic transport becomes the great equalizer. Unlike many American cities, you have a mix of ethnic, cultural and socio-economic people travelling on public transport – and this makes it a true public service.

Window Dressing

This off-kilter scene of windows and shutters is from a building facade on Veterinärstrasse, a street no more than 100M, yet one that is a critical connection between the English Garden and the University district. The shutters make up a mosaic of color, patterns, and filler between the windows. This building is just off the corner of Professor Huber Platz, an area named after Kurt Huber – a professor at Ludwing University. Huber became well known as a central member of the White Rose group, which carried out resistance of the Nazis. Huber was arrested, stripped of his tenure and standing at the university, and then assassinated. The University in later years dedicated the Platz in his memory.

Urban Jungle

As modern as the new Academy of Fine Arts building is in the University district, its neighbor is equally old. The new building, which you see the interior of here, was built in 2005. Its neighbor was constructed in 1887 in Venetian Renaissance style. The Academy was founded in 1808 by Maximillian I of Bavaria, and is one of the oldest and most significant art academies in Germany.