Diva Gazing

More than 14,000 opera fans attended the open air concert at Konigsplatz, featuring Russian Soprano Anna Netrebko and Russian baritone Dmitri Hvorostovsky. The crowd wondered about rain, but were only greeted with the sun shining behind the temple at Konigsplatz - under the dark clouds. This viewer, like thousands others (myself included) lined the streets and parks surrounding Konigsplatz to listen or even get a peak (for the more resourceful pole climbers) of the Russian Diva. As mentioned several days ago, the tickets were quite expensive (300-700 euros), so students of the Musical college next to Konigsplatz (former SS headquarters) took full advantage of their schools proximity and camped out on the grass and along the surrounding walls. One woman even brought her own 5 step ladder so she could peer over the fence at the concert, but ended up frustrated by the number of people asking her if they could take a quick photo (again – me too). I can’t emphasize enough how nice it is just outside the grounds. The music is outstanding. Just bring a blanket, a bottle of wine, and a few friends and you are set.

"Audrey Hepburn with a Voice"

That’s what they call Russian Soprano Anna Netrebko, who will be giving an open air concert July 10th. The entire area of Konigsplatz has been a buzz of activity for days. The city of Munich generally only does 1-2 concerts like this in Konigsplatz each year, so there are high expectations for the concert. Netrebko is quickly taking the opera world by storm, with a strong mix of beautiful voice and on-stage charisma. She was recently ranked number one in the London Times ranking of the world’s 20 best classical divas. She has been quite popular in Bavaria since her Salzburg concert several years back. She is actually coming off a break from touring after the birth of her first son. She will be performing with Russian baritone Dmitri Hvorostovsky. With rain falling in Munich every day for the past 20 days (note covered stage) and ticket prices ranging from 250-700 euros, locals are cautious. But if it’s dry on Friday, come out and join me and the hundreds of others hanging out in the surrounding blocks. You can’t see much, but the sound is perfect.

So What’s Next?

Two tourists stand at Konigsplatz and contemplate a post-Octoberfest Munich. What was there before Octoberfest? Oh yeah. There were those great museums – Glyptotek, pinakothek, Deutsches, Lenbach. There was that great altstadt opened to pedestrians only. There were those great lakes and mountains a stone’s throw away. And, oh yeah, a beer garden on nearly every corner in town. Yes. Octoberfest goes year round, and likely even better without the 6 million visitors. I’ve always argued that Octoberfest isn’t the best side of Munich. My suggestion, now that they are packing up the tents…rent a bike down at the central station. Ride through the English Garden or along the Isar, stop by for a visit in Schwabing or ride over to Olympic Park. Whenever you get tired, pull over and try the next beer garden. Each one has its own character and personality. You’ll find friendly people at every one. That’s our Munich!

Eric Clapton Rocks the Kings Place

Konigsplatz was transformed today into an open-air concert hall as Eric Clapton rocked the entire neighborhood. Hundreds of people descended to the surrounding neighborhood to listen to the concert from outside the grounds. This picture shows the scene across the street at the Konigsplatz U-bahn station. The setting was actually quite nice here and at the music school on the other side of the concert. Many people brought bottles of wine and sat anywhere they could for a make shift picnic. No doubt the event was much nicer inside the concert venue (despite the rain) between the two museums – but it was amazing how many people happened to stumble across the concert, heard Eric play, and stayed for a while.

Munich in the Third Reicht

Munich Pop History Day 7: Konigsplatz, although built by crown prince Ludwig, was one of the greatest propaganda backdrops for Hitler and the Nazi party (This site is a must see for images of Nazi Munich). The Nazi party was started in Munich’s Maxvorstadt neighborhood, after a long period of food and fuel shortages in Germany. Hitler captured the unrest in a hotbed of of right wing movements that led to the 1923 Beer Hall Putch, an attempt to overthrow the government and seize power. 10 years later, the NSDAP headquarters took over a building one block from Konigsplatz, which are today used as a Music school. These buildings, are hopefully all that’s left of a movement that led to more than 50 million being killed during WWII. As the Nazi headquarters, the city was hard hit during the allied raids – more than 71 air raids over six years. You walk around this peaceful and quiet neighborhood, and it’s hard to believe. Nearly 80 years later, and very little has been forgotten here in Munich. Germans, by and large, hold the guilt for past events; and neighboring countries hold Germany to blame for unspeakable crimes. And yet, the city changes. Last year, a $17M Jewish museum opened in the Altstadt, and recently a documentation center opened to help people understand Munich’s past. The journey continues…

Underground Art World

With all the art galleries and museums around Munich (I’m told hundreds), it’s no surprise to see a painting post here…but this image wasn’t from a gallery but rather in the U-bahn, Munich’s underground subway network. In the heart of the museum district at Königsplatz, you will see a subterranean art gallery with sculptures, paintings, and other forms of art. Maybe the station itself isn’t enough to cross town to see, but the museums above it certainly are – the Glyptotek, the museum of antiquity, and the Greek Königsplatz temple. Why the Greek theme there? Apparently, the son of King Ludwig I was Otto, first king of Greece. Ludwig was a great admirer of Greek Culture, and supported the Greek struggle for liberation. His goal was to create a part of Greece in Munich by planning Konigsplatz. In the spirit of the previous post, cheers – or in Greek, Yiamas!